C Kunal Kapur spices up a new Patiala in Dubai
Indian chef makes his UAE debut by relaunching the menu of the existing restaurant
hef Kunal Kapur must love a good challenge. Why else would he agree to take on a restaurant that’s already existed for a few years — that too for his UAE debut?
But Patiala, at Souk Al Bahar in Dubai, provided the perfect setting, says Kapur, best known for his stint on MasterChef India. The restaurant is named after a city in Punjab, and he, although born in Delhi, is from a Punjabi family. Of course, the restaurant’s setting and the business partners had a role to play, too.
Those who’ve dined at Patiala before will notice a distinct shift in the menu: The restaurant previously marketed itself as specialising in North Indian food. While that hasn’t changed, Kapur is also introducing influences from other parts of the country.
Take the dorra kebab (Dh105), for instance, which has heavy South Indian flavours. Dorra, which means silk thread, is laced with sandalwood and then used to truss minced lamb on the skewer. When ready to serve, the dorra is pulled and the kebab unfolds with a flourish. It’s beautifully spiced and the sandalwood gives it a distinct character.
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The haleem kebab (Dh110) is another South Indian influence; haleem, a lamb porridge, is popular in Hyderabad. But Kapur’s made a kebab version of it that’s a must-try starter.
If you still haven’t figured it out, this chef is known for his kebabs, and curries. But he likes to switch things up, too. His grilled Canadian scallops (Dh95) was one of my favourites. Served with orange chutney and green pea puree, it was nicely seared with the accompaniments enveloping the fishy taste.
For the main course, the braised lamb shank with creamy upma (Dh130) is another interesting combination. Upma, a thick porridge made from semolina, is a popular South Indian breakfast dish. But it works really well with the braised lamb shank served with a side of grilled vegetables. The stuffed tandoori chicken breast (Dh120) was meltin-your-mouth tender and marinated to perfection, served with spinach puree.
We only had space left for one dessert, and the chef suggested gadbad falooda (Dh45), a Delhi speciality. Vermicelli is mixed with crushed ice, fruits, basil seeds, rabri (a sweet dish made of yoghurt) and topped with rose syrup. Gadbad basically means ‘to jumble’. This one doesn’t stray too far from the traditional one, but no one’s complaining.
Each dish at Patiala is served with great care. The presentation is immaculate. The kitchen lets you see all the action, but if you prefer a more sophisticated setting, move to the lounge bar. Looks like chef Kapur is going for the win with Patiala.