Edgy with a dose of whimsy
Elie Saab got playful, Hermes spurred links with the equestrian, while Vivienne went street
Hermes galvanised its links with the equestrian on Saturday by holding its Paris Fashion Week runway show at the French capital’s celebrated Longchamp Racecourse. Vivienne Westwood, meanwhile, went street, Elie Saab got playful and the runways in general got a lot of models dressed in black and white.
Here are some highlights from the spring 2019 shows at Paris Fashion Week:
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Violet Chachki and Milk from Ru Paul held court in a warehouse at Vivienne Westwood’s show.
The warehouse was an appropriate setting for an eclectic assortment of styles that riffed on the “street” in streetwear. The models, both men and women, rode skateboards and scooters.
Prints sometimes resembled graffiti, and there were sneakers, sweatpants and even the odd dog collar. Andreas Kronthaler mixed the draped gowns that are a Westwood signature with thigh-length menswear shirts, prints and text.
ELIE SAAB
Popular Lebanese designer Elie Saab is riding high after the coup of having Oscar-winning actress Hilary Swank wear a gown he designed for her wedding last month.
The ethereal wedding gown was made of 25 metres of Chantilly lace, eight meters of silk chiffon and six meters of organza silk and took 150 hours to create.
At Saturday’s show, it may have been readyto-wear style on the runway, but it was clear that it was the same Saab atelier that had done the work. The devil was in the detail. The 58 styles skipped the usual full-throttle, cinched-waist sensuality and energy of Saab’s designs, an exception being thigh-high boots. In its place was a more playful version of Saab that was willing to explore new ideas — for better and for worse. Overpowering, dark floral prints on pants, minis and billowing skirts contrasted with angelic lace and fastidious detailing that evoked the 1970s.
HERMES
Hermes has long been associated with horse racing and affirmed its heritage by launching the showjumping competition Saut Hermes in 2009. The label synonymous with luxury further embraced the legacy by taking Paris Fashion Week to the renovated Longchamp for a Saturday evening display.
The guests, geared up for styles that spoke of horses, were somewhat disappointed by the scarce equestrian references. One that fit the bill was a white dress with eyelets that was inspired by a horse groomer’s apron. The 47 looks by French designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski in ontrend neutral colours were superlative for a host of other reasons. Most twinned the designer’s signature minimalism with a sporty edge.