VALENTINO

“A work in substruction,” so said the house, was the spirit behind Pierpaolo Piccioli’s accomplished — and pared down — display for Valentino. Deceptively simple black looks began the collection: a shoulderless baggy jumpsuit with cape and Elizabethan-style sleeves and a gown with an exaggerated peplum hem. Their beauty lay in the subtlety of detail. An unstructured minidress with giant flounce looked beautifully off-kilter as it hung delicately from the model’s shoulder.

White looks then came, and were, alongside black, a dominant theme.