DOLCE & GABBANA

If Dolce & Gabbana are still stinging over a backlash in China, they sought to salve it in Milan with quiet elegance. The runway show on Saturday was the brand’s first major outing after being forced to cancel a Shanghai show in November amid accusations of cultural insensitivity. The collection contained an array of timeless looks for the global dandy, from an American Great Gatsby, a Sicilian noble or, yes, even a Chinese tycoon. From backstage flowed silk twill robes and pyjamas, brocade suits whose patterns were inspired by cathedrals, rich velvet day coats over trousers and warm knitwear. Looks were finished with touches like sheepskin outerwear, fringed silk scarfs or elegant umbrellas.