Prada

Harper's Bazaar (Arabia) - - Front Page -

Keep­ing things close to home, Prada’s show took place in the Her­zog & de Meu­ron-de­signed The Piano Fac­tory in Man­hat­tan – head­quar­ters for the Ital­ian brand – with a vi­sion to ‘open the door into a New York Prada world’. As semi-trans­par­ent pan­els sus­pended from the ceil­ing re­flected and dis­torted the city sky­line out­side, Mi­uc­cia Prada sent mod­els down the cat­walk in an ode to the house’s ar­chive. Kick-start­ing with the late-Nineties, muted brown and tan tones were quickly re­placed by more psy­che­delic print-on-prints, along­side tex­ture, bro­cade and jacquard, all clash­ing to glo­ri­ous ef­fect. Here, the mood was up­beat and play­ful, with an over-rid­ing sen­ti­ment of ‘why have min­i­mal­ism when you can have more?’ Prov­ing what goes around comes around, Mi­uc­cia brought back the mi­cro-mini, stacked-heel loafer to sporty-chic ef­fect, and brash retro-Seven­ties logo neck­laces, clev­erly bridg­ing the gap be­tween past and present, fan­tasy and re­al­ity. If only this re­gion called for se­quin-stud­dedtights, be­cause they were a scen­estealer and de­manded im­me­di­ate In­sta-story at­ten­tion. What’s the take-away? That when Mi­uc­cia delves into an ar­chive, she’s res­o­lute in mak­ing it mod­ern and rel­e­vant. The nods to the past weaved a nar­ra­tive into the fu­ture, whilst pro­vid­ing mil­len­ni­als with the ‘back story’ they so seek – cool but con­sid­ered. The clothes were lively, the en­ergy elec­tric and the vi­sion spot on for the mood of ‘now’ – ev­ery­one could do with a dose of pos­i­tiv­ity and Prada brought the fun.

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