GLORIOUS AND GREEN
Rising out of Bursa’s southern border, Mount Uludag is one of the Turkey’s favorite winter sports centers and its richness of flora and fauna has led to its designation as a national park.
Behold the grandeur of Ottoman mosques, rejuvenate in the healing waters of ancient hammams, spend hours browsing a sprawling bazaar and dine in one of the numerous restaurants dotting the winding streets and alleys. We’re describing not your experience of Istanbul – which no doubt immediately came to mind – but Bursa, the thriving city on the southeast side of the Sea of Marmara. Few know that Bursa was the first major capital city of the early Ottoman Empire following its capture from the Byzantines in 1326 and, as a result, has fantastic historical and cultural sites to discover and explore. Scattered throughout the countryside are smaller towns and villages, each with its own claim to fame. The hills surrounding Gemlik are famous for their olive gardens and oils, while the remains of the ancient Greek town of Kios can be found on its eastern side. Inegol is known for its outstanding kofte (meatballs) and the Oylat Thermal Springs are close by. The village of Cumalikizik is a Unesco World Heritage site since it is considered to be the most authentic and the best preserved waqf (public endowments) village established by the Ottoman Empire. Iznik, better known as ancient Nicaea, was at one time one of the most important cities in the region and played a crucial role in the history of a number of civilizations and empires.
Nature’s bounty
Rising out of Bursa’s southern border, Mount Uludag is one of the Turkey’s favorite winter sports centers and its richness of flora and fauna has led to its designation as a national park. During winter, skiers can choose from 25 runs ranging from beginner to expert, with the longest stretching to almost two kilometers. The national park is wonderful for trekking, camping, bird watching, and picnicking in summer. A number of trails crisscross the mountain, leading to peaks, lakes, waterfalls, canyons, and villages. Even if you’re not the adventure-seeking type, you can take the teleferik (cable car) to Sarialan and enjoy self-grilled kofte or sucuk in the shade of tall pine trees. From there, you can take a leisurely stroll through the lush forest and breathe in refreshing gulps of crisp mountain air while enjoying the nature around you. On the west side of Bursa in the village of Cekirge are six hot spring baths containing sulphur and iron, whose fame has spread throughout the world. Unsurprisingly, all the houses and hotels in Cekirge have hot spring water available. To truly appreciate the tradition, it is best to go to the hammam with friends, as historically visits to the hammam were as much a social event as a cleansing ritual.
Vibrant shopping experience
Although the days of travelling caravans are long gone and Bursa’s status as a major Silk Road trading centre is quietly fading into distant memory, the traditional hans (workshop and warehouse complexes arranged around a courtyard) still remain a vibrant presence and enchanting pieces of its vast bazaar complex. Each of Bursa’s hans contributes to the city’s central marketplace, and collectively offer visitors countless places to shop, eat, and explore. Handmade goods like silk scarves, ebru paintings, ceramics and tiles, calligraphy, metal art, Ottoman-period antiques and wool clothing make for interesting purchases and special shopping memories.
And finally, when you need to rest your weary legs, retreat to the second floor of Geyve Han, from where it’s not difficult to envision a crowd of traders bartering their goods animatedly in the now tranquil courtyard below. It provides a perfect setting that reveals the extraordinarily peaceful modesty of Bursa’s rustic charm.