Smell of coffee permeates streets of tea-obsessed Afghan capital
kabul — Afghans in need of a caffeine fix line up at Najibullah Sharyari’s coffee cart in Kabul — converts to the drink that is now percolating in a country obsessed with tea for centuries.
Standing on a noisy street among vendors hawking their wares, the 30-year-old barista serves takeaway instant coffee from a mobile machine at his New York-style cart for as little as 28 cents a cup.
Coffee is the “best medicine” to cope with the daily grind in the overcrowded, polluted and wartorn city, insists Sharyari, pouring Nescafe into a fake Starbucks cup for a customer as honking cars crawl past his stand.
The uninitiated often ask for tea, he says, before explaining: “We tell them they can have tea at home. There is a big difference between a cup of tea and a cup of coffee — coffee is better.”
Sharyari’s coffee cart — one of several he operates around the sprawling Afghan capital — is an oddity in a city where most people drink tea and cafes are often protected by armed guards and hidden from view behind blast walls and steel doors.
Afghanistan was introduced to tea because of its location on the ancient Silk Road, and today remains one of the world’s largest tea consumers per capita.
The drink is integral to the country’s famed culture of hospitality, with guests offered a cup of green tea — often infused with aromatic cardamom pods, and a piece of sugar on the side — as they enter homes and offices. It is ubiquitous at the table regardless of whether the meal being served is breakfast, lunch or dinner.
But coffee has the power to pull people out of their daily routine, according to the aficionados at Sharyari’s cart.
“Whenever I go to university I take this street just to drink a cup of coffee while I’m walking,” university student Sayed Millad Hashimi said. Sharyari launched his business four years ago in the relatively prosperous northern city of Mazar-iSharif, investing 50,000 Afghanis ($725) in a couple of coffee machines from neighbouring Uzbekistan.
Its success saw him expand to Kabul, where he says he has eight machines and serves more than 1,500 customers per day.
The sight of steam rising from the cart and the rich smell brew excitement apart from the impending jolt of caffeine, says a government worker named Mujiburrahman, rubbing his hands in anticipation.
“I am also happy to see our people getting creative and create job opportunities,” the young and sharply dressed customer said.