The Gulf Today - Time Out - - CONTENTS | FOCUS -

For Au­tumn 2018 Etro takes a jour­ney to the land of the end­less hori­zon. For this col­lec­tion, Veron­ica Etro found in­spi­ra­tion in the long shad­ows and dusty colourscapes of wide western land­scapes wrapped up in the graphic sen­si­bil­i­ties of Euro­pean dec­o­ra­tive arts. Bold pat­terns are in­spired by the in­tri­cate art deco ta­pes­tries, the enam­eled jew­elry boxes and the colour block­ing of Ital­ian post­mod­ern ar­chi­tec­ture. This col­lec­tion ex­ists in a cos­mic prairie dream­world un­locked only by Etro’s bo­hemian won­der.

This col­lec­tion re­lies largely on print for vis­ual com­plex­ity. The pat­terns on each gar­ment were mapped with math­e­mat­i­cal pre­ci­sion and 3D mod­elled by hand to achieve the ex­act place­ment of ev­ery geo­met­ric ru­fle, graphic bor­der and bil­low­ing printed scarf. Weight­less silk geor­gette and crêpe are el­e­vated to the ar­chi­tec­tural via the in­tensely com­pli­cated pro­cesses used to cre­ate these lut­ter­ing, ethe­real gowns.

Printed che­nille is used on fringed cardi­gans and wrap­around dresses. Knitwear is the high­light of the sea­son with mas­ter­fully crafted coats, capes, dresses and pon­chos. The weight of suede and faux fur coats is bro­ken up with pan­els of in­tar­sia knit pat­terned wool. Chunky knits are lipped in­side out on cropped jumpers to ex­pose in­tri­cate stitch­ing; jacquard stripes on luid blan­ket coats are trimmed with suede fringe.

Pat­terns range from graphic checker­board de­tail­ing to sweep­ing mi­rage-like land­scapes. Tra­di­tional Etro pais­ley has been in­ter­preted in mul­ti­ple ways: eth­nic with the chiné tech­nique, ban­dana ef­fect, man­ual in black and white or cos­mic with stars. This iconic print is found through­out the col­lec­tion, along­side wall­pa­per lo­rals, stripes, ifties-style hearts and ar­rows and naïve patch­works. Art Deco mon­tages with wide colour sur­faces are sourced from 1920s era car­pets. Colours are dusty and warm, in­spired by prairie land­scapes: sage green, choco­late, apri­cot, burnt or­ange, pea­cock, night blue, mus­tard, to­bacco, pow­dery brick and red­dish lob­ster tones.

Sil­hou­ettes are in­tensely ro­man­tic: prim gowns have high col­lars, it­ted bodices and end­less ru­fled edg­ing. Suede lat­tice trims col­lars for a weight­ier con­trast to im­pos­si­bly light tex­tiles, while wispy tiered dresses bring an el­e­ment of move­ment. Dresses and coats are de­signed with built-in scarves for a vo­lu­mi­nously wrapped ef­fect. Wide­legged leather trousers in choco­late and am­ber shades are cuffed at the bot­tom or cut short. Printed cash­mere jog­ging suits are de­signed with loose trousers and it­ted camisole tops and but­ter yel­low py­ja­mas are burst­ing with lo­ral prints. A tai­lored suit in pais­ley jacquard, along­side western style shirt­ing with cas­cad­ing printed fringe, add a more mas­cu­line note to an oth­er­wise de­cid­edly fem­i­nine col­lec­tion.

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