Veg­e­tar­ian’s de­light

Gar­lic, an­chovies, lemon and pars­ley flavour a sim­ple-to-pre­pare roasted cau­li­flower dish. Leah Eskin shares a recipe that can be tried this week

The Gulf Today - Time Out - - COVER STORY -

DinerenBlanc—din­nerin white is an en­chant­ing idea. Guests, dressed in their in­est whites, learn last-minute the un­likely lo­ca­tion of their meal say, out­side Lin­coln Cen­ter. Ex­hibit­ing, in the words of the in­ter­na­tional or­gan­i­sa­tion, “deco­rum, el­e­gance, and eti­quette,” they stage a posh pic­nic.

I’m all for un­likely, for el­e­gance, for pic­nic, though in the 30 years since a guy named Fran­cois Pasquier sug­gested his friends get to­gether in a park, in white, I’ve never at­tended the event. The se­cret so­ci­ety meets in Santo Domingo, the Do­mini­can Repub­lic, and Abid­jan, Ivory Coast, and other spots I fre­quent in­fre­quently. Like, never.

In fact, the whole pro­ject, while very pub­lic who can miss 10,000 Parisians, in white, din­ing un­der the Eif­fel Tower — it’s also very pri­vate. You have to be in­vited.

In­stead, I pull to­gether my own white night. I pre­pare an all-white meal steamed had­dock, stewed can­nellini beans, sliv­ered en­dive, roasted caulilower warmed with gar­lic and an­chovy. I cue up the re­mas­tered “White Al­bum.” Dressed in an el­e­gantly dis­tressed white T-shirt, I re­veal the lo­ca­tion kitchen ta­ble and en­joy Diner en Blanc, home-style.

CAU­LI­FLOWER PREP: 15 MIN­UTES COOK: 30 MIN­UTES MAKES: 4 SERV­INGS IN­GRE­DI­ENTS

2 FIRM HEADS CAU­LI­FLOWER OLIVE OIL 1 CLOVE GAR­LIC 1 TEA­SPOON KOSHER SALT 1/2 TEA­SPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEP­PER

4 TO 6 AN­CHOVY FIL­LETS

FRESHLY SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE 2 TA­BLE­SPOONS CHOPPED FRESH PARS­LEY PECORINO RO­MANO CHEESE, GRATED, OP­TIONAL

METHOD

1. Roast: Heat oven to 425. Trim away caulilower cores; cut the heads into lorets. Toss with 2 ta­ble­spoons olive oil and spread out on a rimmed bak­ing sheet. Roast un­til ten­der and browned in many spots, toss­ing once or twice, 25 to 30 min­utes.

2. Mash: Mean­while, use a mor­tar and pes­tle to mash gar­lic and salt to a paste. Drop in pep­per and an­chovies and mash. Work in 2 tea­spoons lemon juice and 1/4 cup olive oil.

3. Toss: When caulilower is done, scrape it into a serv­ing bowl. Toss with an­chovy sauce. Taste and add lemon juice or olive oil if needed. Sprin­kle with chopped pars­ley and a lit­tle cheese, if you like.

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