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Menswear from Saint Lau­rent; Vacheron Con­stantin ties up with Abbey Road; Rich the Kid and DJ Sita Abel­lan for MCM; and the Sa­mu­rai pen

Even be­fore An­thony Vac­carello staged his autumn/win­ter 2018 fash­ion show for Saint Lau­rent in Paris, we knew we would be in for some­thing spec­tac­u­lar. Ap­pointed as the brand’s cre­ative di­rec­tor in 2016, Vac­carello shares the same in­cli­na­tion for dis­creet drama as his pre­de­ces­sors, so it felt en­tirely nat­u­ral that the autumn/win­ter show would be staged in a huge glass box op­po­site the Eif­fel Tower. What bet­ter way to en­sure that the en­tire world would be watch­ing?

The house of Saint Lau­rent has long been de­fined by its lux­u­ri­ous fab­rics and ex­quis­ite de­tail­ing; how­ever, un­der the di­rec­tor­ship of Vac­carello, this has been taken to a new level. In the col­lec­tion, both men and women were clad al­most ex­clu­sively in black, and at first glance this served to hide all the sump­tu­ous de­tail­ing. The women were draped in acres of gleam­ing leather, while the men were clad in shim­mer­ing sil­ver lurex, suits of crushed vel­vet and em­broi­dered fronted shirts.

A slim-cut suit in deep piled vel­vet was lifted – barely – with a bur­nished gold shirt, while else­where, an in­tensely dark 1970s leather pea­coat sat over a knit­ted jumper, run through with sil­ver thread. In a rare shot of colour, a teal suit was carved from vel­vet so dense only flashes of pig­ment were to be seen, while a tuxedo was so sub­dued, the ex­quis­ite gros­grain edg­ing was al­most im­per­cep­ti­ble. In one of the lighter touches, a bomber jacket was made from Glen tweed, wo­ven from what might have been spun pewter.

Much is made of the ex­pres­sion “the devil is in the de­tail”, but in this omi­nously beau­ti­ful col­lec­tion, that re­ally holds true. By lay­er­ing tone-on-tone, Vac­carello shows his mas­tery of un­der­state­ment, as the shad­ows dis­guise al­most all of the rich em­bel­lish­ments. By choos­ing such a dark ap­proach, the cre­ative di­rec­tor reaf­firms that true lux­ury is not so much about shout­ing to the world, but in­stead sav­ing the real beauty of a gar­ment for the per­son wear­ing it.

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