THROUGH THE AGES
Fashion historian Reem El Mutwalli has a PhD in Islamic art and architecture, has written a number of books, and has been responsible for curating exhibitions and collections at the Cultural Foundation, Abu Dhabi. She has also amassed a collection of Emirati dresses that reflects the country’s history. She explains how the silhouette of the abaya has evolved in the UAE. Pre-1950s: The traditional Bedouin abaya was a squareshaped black wool overgarment adorned with a wide gold trim at the central neckline. It could only really be afforded by those at the higher echelons of society, such as the wives of sheikhs or merchants. For the general public, the large double-width black shayla, or headscarf, was used to engulf the upper part of the body, and played the role of the abaya. 1970s: Different weights of black silk became popular and, in time, less opaque. By the end of the 1970s, the abayas worn at social functions became increasingly sheer. It draped from the back of the head, bunched at the waist and tucked under the arm, showing off the lower part of whatever was worn underneath. 1980s: The shoulder abaya was introduced from Saudi Arabia. This saw the arrival of a basic full-length black sleeved cloak that covered the body, alongside the narrower black shayla that covered the head. Black fabrics in different weights and sheerness were experimented with, and various adornment techniques were introduced. 1990s: The same basic shape of the abaya continued, with displays of more ostentatious lace, heavy embroidery, iron-on rhinestones (usually all in black) and some sparkle every now and then, as the abaya and shayla became paired as ensembles. The new ‘umaniyah’ (from Oman, as it resembled the tunics worn by Omani men), became widely used. This is known as the Islamic abaya as it was completely closed at the front and could be slipped on over the head. 2000-2010: Heavy experimentation in new cuts and styles began, resulting in bizarre and at times very flamboyant shapes. Butterflies, bats or anything with wings in multi-layers became all the rage. Some also acquired a waistline through different styles of narrow and wide belts to emphasise body shape, and hooded extensions were introduced in attempts to blend with popular Western attire.
2010-present day: Experimentation with coloured shaylas and abayas has become elevated, with natural fabrics and high-end designs that express individuality, functionality, and an overall awareness of global and environmental changes. Emerging local designers begin to look beyond Western fashion labels for inspiration, developing their own signature styles based on a global fashion heritage. Today’s abaya has evolved to mean more than a piece of clothing covering other garments. Detaching itself from earlier attributes, symbolism or the concept of mere functionality, the abaya has acquired a standing of its own, thus becoming a fundamental fashion piece, and an added value to an overall outfit. In shopping centres, women of every age can be seen wearing beautifully decorated abayas that do not necessarily hide the outfit anymore, and it is now quite common to see them worn open in the front in the guise of a coat.