Al Dhafra race crews rise to the challenge of the sea
▶ Traditional skills on show as dhows race for Dh200,000 prize
Visitors were treated to a spectacular display of traditional seamanship at Al Dhafra Water Festival yesterday as more than 2,000 sailors fought it out on the water for a Dh200,000 prize.
Crews on more than 100 traditional 18-metre dhows were challenging for the title.
Much was at stake in the crowded waters an hour off the coastal city of Mirfa in western Abu Dhabi, where some boats cost as much as Dh60,000.
Many crews took to the water bearing knowledge of the seas from parents and grandparents, and competition began to heat up as the boats jostled for position as they approached the start line.
Shaban Ahmed’s crew was one of the last dhows to reach the starting line, claiming the start time had been ambiguous: after the noon prayer but also after the winds started.
Some said it could all be over by 3pm, while others said it might not begin until 4pm.
“I came for neither money nor glory,” said Mr Ahmed, 33. “I do it all for the joy of the sea.”
Mr Ahmed and the crew of 20 young men, all from Mirfa, sat in the midday heat waiting for the wind to pick up and their race to begin.
Their vessel had been pulled in by a speedboat, while other crews had arrived by air-conditioned yacht, reaching the starting point fresh.
Captains had come with their crews from Dubai, Abu Dhabi and as far as Siwak, on Oman’s Batinah Coast. Some were there for the bragging rights, while others were more interested in the financial rewards.
On other boats, the excitement was building. Men rapped their knuckles on decks and banged out tempos on water coolers, waiting for the breeze.
Patience is part of a sailor’s skill, Mr Ahmed said.
“The secret’s here,” he said, pointing to his brain. “The crew and the captain must be balanced and must have patience. The most important thing to read is the wind. I may be last but if I catch the wind, anything can happen.”
At 2.30pm there was still no hint of a breeze, and concern was growing about the potential for a postponement.
Most of Mr Ahmed’s crew were from Mirfa and Delma Island, and were taught to sail by their grandfathers.
Most days, Mr Ahmed works in security, with sailing a weekend pursuit. He speaks fluent Russian but his grandfather was a pearler who spent his summer diving in the shallow waters off the islands.
His grandfather had worked on a Jelbut dhow, much like the one with which Mr Ahmed was trying to win the Dh200,000.
It is a small boat, prized for speed, which uses nylon sails and carbon fibre masts imported from Germany. But the skills to master the agile ship remain unchanged.
Most crews practise every week, up to five hours at a time.
The boat’s owner is Shihab Al Hammadi, who named it after his grandfather, Hamaidan. They had two other boats as serious competition: Zalzal – The Earthquake and Al Asifa – The Storm.
Al Dhafra Water Festival, now in its 10th year, has increased interest in Jelbut sailing and shipbuilding in Abu Dhabi’s western Al Dhafra region.
Lucrative competitions such as this one have spurred interest among younger participants, giving hope that the traditions will be maintained.
Most of Mr Al Hammadi’s crew were in their early thirties and compete in up to 20 events a year.
“They are doing it because they like the challenge,” he said. “If we win, I take half the prize money and the rest is divided equally among the crew.”
This money is reinvested into the dhow as the body of an 18m Jelbut can cost Dh60,000 and the masts twice that much.
“The most important thing is the government investment,” Mr Al Hammadi said. “They want us to keep doing the traditional thing and that’s why they’re paying.”
The wind picked up at 3pm, and the men hoisted the sails and raised their voices as the race began.
But Mr Ahmed’s excitement was short lived. Hamaidan collided with another dhow early in the race, pushing it back from close to the lead.
Racing over the finish line, they had another minor collision, and the dhow of Jabar Al Hammadi, also from Mirfa, took first place.
The most important thing to read is the wind. I may be last but if I catch the wind, anything can happen SHABAN AHMED Dhow captain