LOCALS UNIMPRESSED BY THEIR OWN TEAM BUT ‘WHAT MATTERS IS THE CELEBRATION IN RUSSIA’
Moscow is buzzing even as optimism for the hosts seems only for the foolhardy and the few, writes John McAuley
In a section of the sprawling city, singing and chanting and dancing ricocheted around in the shadow of the Kremlin
On Nikolskaya Street, beneath the speckled lights that guide the way to Red Square and under the rain too, Moscow hummed and heaved, finally, to the sound of the World Cup.
A giant clock counted down to today’s match between hosts Russia and Saudi Arabia, the beginning of a first global finals to take place in the country, an event in which the country hopes to parade itself to the world as a modern Russia, progressive and inclusive.
On that night, everyone felt as one. Moscow was in celebratory mood, a section of this sprawling city at least, as singing and chanting and dancing ricocheted around in the shadow of the Kremlin.
The Peru fans were lively and loud, with their inflatable limas and countless flags. This is Peru’s first appearance at the tournament in 36 years, so understandably the supporters of the last team to qualify want to make a lasting impression.
They had competition up and down the thronging street, from the Egyptians dressed as pharaohs and tooting horns, to the Mexicans buried beneath sombreros or hiding behind Lucha libre masks. Hiding in plain sight, happy for all the world to see.
There were Argentines everywhere, too, banging drums, perched high on street signs, with homemade placards plastered across walls.
They crowed about Lionel Messi, a taunt to their Brazilian rivals, who ceased crooning about Gabriel Jesus so they could respond with their own version of that Messi ditty, one less complimentary to perhaps the greatest player at this World Cup and any that have gone before.
Those who have travelled from Saudi Arabia, less conspicuous but only because they were swallowed by the colour and the clamour. Still, they waved plastic flags, draped themselves in green flags.
Yousef Sharif, a business coach based in Jubail, travelled with his brother and four sons, never thinking he would witness in person his country at a World Cup. He smiles at the welcome commotion around him.
“It’s really something we did not expect at all,” Sharif said.
“It’s very, very special. This is the holy month for us; usually we stay home. Tomorrow is our Eid celebrations. So we hope we have two Eid celebrations: that Saudi will win the first match and we have our Eid.” Son Adnan agrees.
“I have never lived moments like this,” he said as thoughts drifted towards the national anthem blurred out at the Luzhniki stadium, for all to hear. “I don’t live it yet, but it will be something indescribable. Indescribable.”
Hany Toma, an Egyptian pharmacist born and raised in the United States, is not so lost for words. Dressed as a pharaoh and agreeing to an endless stream of selfies, he will watch his country against Uruguay and Russia and then skydive in Saint Petersburg.
“There’s about 100 of us, we met on the Egyptian Facebook page,” Toma screams above the racket. “So it’s not just about soccer. It’s about Egyptians from all over the world, hanging out. From Egypt, USA, Gulf area.
“Sine 1990 we didn’t make the World Cup. But now our dreams come true, so I can’t wait. I hope we qualify every time.”
Some hope more than others. While visitors look forward to the next four weeks with excitement, the natives not so much. The lowest-ranked team at the tournament, genuine optimism for Russia seems only for the foolhardy and the few.
Yesterday, the Moscow Times front page carried the headline: “Aging and inexperienced: Why Russia is doomed to fail”.
Inside, it questioned whether Stanislav Cherchesov’s side are the worst in the country’s history. Not all Russians are apathetic, although that sentiment is prevalent.
They wish the World Cup is remembered for the right reasons, not for the country’s long-standing issues with racism or hooliganism.
Groups have been warned against violence by the government, the police presence thickened.
However, a state-funded poll claimed 74 per cent of Russians held a positive view about hosting the US$10.7 billion (Dh39bn) World Cup.
Julia Bryansk, a student at Moscow Technology University, working this month as an official volunteer, is one such soul.
“I can’t find the words to explain this incredible celebration,” she said as she walked along Nikolskaya Street, eyes wide. “It’s so cool.”
She laughed when asked if the success of the World Cup is dependent on the success of its host team.
“I think no. They’re so bad at football. But it doesn’t matter. What matters is the celebration in Russia. It’s a big, fantastic time for us. So many people here from outside.
“It’s special for me; special for us.”