STYLISH, SOCIAL, SCRUMPTIOUS
▶ Janice Rodrigues looks at UAE’s thriving food hall scene as the Time Out Market opens its doors
The concept of food halls – where diners have access to a variety of food vendors, artisanal produce and eclectic brands in a stylish setting (think vaulted ceilings and plush cushions) – is not new. These market-like destinations have been around in the UK, Europe and US for years, and are often nestled within aesthetically pleasing, even historical buildings – Harrods in London, The Plaza in New York and Mathallen in Oslo being prime examples.
They are, however, getting more popular than ever; according to research by Cushman & Wakefield, there was a 700 per cent increase in the number of food halls in the US from 2010 to 2017. And now, they’re whipping up a storm in the UAE, with a number of additions over the past year.
Depachika, which launched in Nakheel Mall last January, was among the first in the UAE. With “depato” translating from the Japanese to department store and “chika” to basement, this concept is inspired by the popular basement-level food halls found in Japan. Inside, guests can access more than 40 vendors presenting a mix of readyto-eat food – think Lime Tree Cafe, Kilikio by Mythos and Moishi ice cream – as well as retail and gifting options from brands such as Florette, The Lighthouse, Royce’ Chocolate and Protein Bakeshop.
“Depachika has only been improving thanks to the great reception in the market, the food-loving community and the support of the area’s local residents,” says Monica Metzger, food and beverage manager, Nakheel Mall.
Over the past 15 or so months – and despite 2020 being a slow year for the F&B industry – numerous other food halls have cropped up in the UAE. In July, South Market food hall launched in the Dubai International Financial Centre, giving customers access to everything from Thai cuisine from BKK Bistro, and milk tea from M A D, to sweet treats from Cereal Killer Cafe.
Meanwhile, Al Areesh Club, complete with a bakery, butchery, speciality coffee shop, deli and soft-serve ice cream parlour, presented myriad dining options to those in Dubai Festival City upon its launch in September 2020.
And then there’s Food District, a two-storey concept that opened on The Pointe at The Palm Jumeirah in November, which champions homegrown brands including Dibba Bay Oysters and Boon Coffee. A seasonal food hall, this will close for the summer on Saturday, April 10, and reopen when the weather is cooler.
The newest kid on the block is Time Out Market Dubai, which opens at Souk Al Bahar today in partnership with Emaar. The indoor culinary destination offers visitors some of the best views of the Burj Khalifa and easy access to The Dubai Mall, and spans about 4,000 square metres, making it the largest food hall in the emirate.
“Visitors will get a true taste of the city from 17 of Dubai’s top chefs and celebrated restaurateurs. This curated mix of cultural and culinary experiences gives visitors a chance to experience the best of the city under one roof,” says Sandy El Hayek, general manager, Time Out Market Dubai.
The capital, too, is set to get its first food hall – The Botanic Atrium. This is scheduled to launch in Mall at World Trade Centre Abu Dhabi in June, and will feature a sushi counter, momo restaurant and more.
“I’ve been visiting Abu Dhabi over the years, and was amazed by the city and its development. However, the one thing that I didn’t see was a food hall, which is why I thought it would add value to the local scene,” says Shabaz Rasool, an Amsterdam resident who is one of the partners behind the project. Rasool says The Botanic Atrium was inspired by his love for food halls, and he wants to take the concept to new heights, with technology that allows guests to order from different brands while sitting in one place.
“When you go to a food hall with a group of friends who want different cuisines, you end up standing, visiting different restaurants individually, which can eat away time otherwise spent socialising. We want to eliminate that completely,” he says.
Whether one prefers the traditional or the technological route, having a mix of cuisines is a food hall’s greatest selling point. As Samantha Wood, founder of impartial restaurant review website FooDiva. net, puts it, “[At a food hall], a family or group of friends can dine in the same destination, yet each can eat something different, with all dietary requirements catered for.”
It’s easy to confuse the two, yet experts are quick to differentiate between a food hall and a food court, another concept that involves many brands co-existing in the same space and with self-serve options.
“A food hall offers a more elevated, refined dining experience – where you can feast on restaurant-quality food at an affordable price point. The interior design and service are of a high standard. A food hall typically also boasts a retail element, in addition to dine-in options,” explains Wood.
“Nakheel Mall has a food court situated on the second floor, but what Depachika offers is an experience, more than a quick-dining option,” adds Metzger. “Meanwhile, the variety that we provide, from a cooking school to a cheese room, complements and elevates our dine-in options.”
One of the biggest differentiating factors between food
halls and food courts can be found in the brands each associates with. Unlike food courts, you’d be hard-pressed to find a McDonalds, Burger King or Pizza Hut in a food hall.
“While food courts tend to constitute fast-food chains, food halls typically include a good mix of local artisan restaurants,” says El Hayek.
“Moreover, the thing about having big brands or fast-food franchises is that you can’t change them. They operate in a certain way and have a certain dish that can be found everywhere, and that’s why I sometimes find food courts soul-destroying. At a food hall, you know you are getting a unique experience, something you won’t be able to taste anywhere else,” Rasool says.
One sure-fire way to offer guests something they would seldom find in another country is to champion brands not found elsewhere. This is why a number of food halls work exclusively with home-grown concepts. Working with boutique restaurants has other benefits as well. “It’s important that our market reflects the diversity and culture of the city, and home-grown talent is the way to ensure we stay true to that,” says El Hayek.
Metzger points out that the relationship is mutually beneficial. “We provide a space that helps vendors or home-grown talent increase their exposure to residents. Meanwhile, many of these vendors come with faithful customers who follow them.”
Reif Othman, chef and co-owner of Reif Japanese Kushiyaki, is something of a food hall whizz kid, with separate concepts in Depachika Food Hall, Food District and the upcoming Time Out Market Dubai. Othman, who serves a limited selection of dishes at these venues, makes no bones when he says food halls are a good option for home-grown brands for financial reasons.
“We believe in stand-alone concepts, provided the rent deal is right. [But] opening a stand-alone restaurant is much riskier, with many factors at play. Finding a good, understanding landlord these days is challenging, for example,” he says.
“With a food hall concept, we have no major start-up costs or fixed overheads, and are only paying a percentage on turnover. We also benefit from destination marketing, and cross-exposure from other vendors, which all bring in quicker footfall and new customers.”
Dine-in aside, Othman reveals even the demand for home delivery is high at food halls in Dubai.
With the venues able to cater to many different tastes and budgets, in a stylish, social setting, it looks like food halls are only set to expand. Wood points out that while traditional restaurants may always have their place, “we live in a multicultural society with differing palates – and food halls cater to this easily”.
A food hall offers a refined dining experience and typically boasts a retail element SAMANTHA WOOD Food reviewer