Times are tough in Jordan, but musaharati remains big noise in holy month
Late at night in a low-income district of Amman, Zeid Abu Mushref walks with an assured step as he pounds his drum, hiding his status as a novice musaharati.
“Hey, you who are asleep, recite a prayer to Allah,” he chants, his voice ringing out between beats.
But the steps of the 19-yearold are swift, as is his drumming.
Mr Abu Mushref operates in Nuzha, a hilly district of the Jordanian capital that he needs to cover on foot before the break of dawn. This is so people wake up in time for suhoor before the day-long Ramadan fast begins.
He grew up in the busy Jabal Hussein district of Amman, where there is a large Palestinian refugee camp. His father died when he was a child.
Mr Abu Mushref learnt how to be a musaharati from a friend, who showed him the way during the holy month last year.
“He was popular in Nuzha. He died after last Ramadan and I took over,” Mr Abu Mushref says.
He gives part of his earnings to the family of his late friend, who worked for almost a decade as a musaharati.
The job is spiritual and material. It dates to times when there were no alarm clocks or technology to keep track of the hours.
“We do this to gain reward from God, and for our livelihoods,” Mr Abu Mushref says.
Although most people wake up on their own, many still like to have a musaharati in their neighbourhood.
It is a boon for children, who love to ask the musaharati to let them play his drum as he tours the streets.
Jordan has been in recession since last year, and unemployment is officially at a high of 24 per cent. The authorities relaxed coronavirus rules last month but movement restrictions remain in place between 7pm to 6am.
Many people do not obey the rules, but there is still less traffic on the streets.
Mr Abu Mushref says that with the coronavirus restrictions, fewer children have been taking to the streets this Ramadan to greet the musaharati.
“Before it was difficult to get back home because of so many kids. Now people are afraid to let their children out,” he says.
“Still, I give the drum to any child who wants to beat it. Whoever puts a smile on someone’s face, God will put happiness in his heart.”