Rich history and hospitality in the heart of Scotland’s capital
For more than 100 years, The Balmoral has stood proudly on Edinburgh’s Princes Street, its lofty clock tower a prominent part of the capital’s skyline.
Dating back to 1902, the structure stands adjacent to Waverley Train Station and is the only residential building on the south side of the capital’s Princes Street, part of a Unesco-listed heritage site.
Blending friendly Scottish hospitality with Italian passion and a hint of French flair, the hotel – whose name means majestic dwelling in Scottish Gaelic – is one of the most famous in Scotland, so The National checks in to find out what it’s like to stay there.
The welcome
Stepping off the train at Waverley station, we climb the stairway, turn to our right and immediately find the stone-stepped entrance to The Balmoral.
A sharply dressed doorman ushers us inside where – on our December visit – we’re greeted by what looks like a scene straight out of a Christmas card, with a beautifully decorated tree in front of a roaring fireplace laden with stockings. At the reception desk to the left of the lobby, the process is quick and efficient and it’s a nice touch when the receptionist comes out from behind the desk to personally hand over our key card and show us to the lifts.
The neighbourhood
Stepping outside the front door lands you on Princes Street – the city’s main thoroughfare that’s lined with historic monuments, flower-filled parks, museums, shops, bars and restaurants.
A few minutes from the hotel is Princes Street Gardens, which date back to 1820. It blooms in summertime and is transformed into a winter wonderland in December. And the crowning gem in the neighbourhood is Edinburgh Castle, peering down on the city from Castle Rock.
The room
The Italian finesse is unmistakable in the room that my husband and I are staying in. Decor is elegant and understated, with ecological-inspired art complementing pastel green tones. Scottish art adorns the walls in our Deluxe Castle View room, which comes with unrivalled vistas of Edinburgh Castle and the Scott Monument.
In the bathroom, there’s a hint of playfulness via blackand-white acrylic prints of Sean Connery – dressed in a pair of shorts and holding the legs of Ursula Andress. It’s a scene taken during the filming of Bond film Dr No and is a nod to the Edinburgh native actor.
The scene
With 167 rooms and 20 suites, The Balmoral is large enough to have an energetic buzz but not quite so mammoth that it’s overwhelming. During our visit, it’s busy with tourists, locals and a few families.
Wandering through the hotel feels like venturing through history – especially if you take the wide spiralling staircases with their thick carpets, candelabra-style lights and ornamental ceilings. Nods to the hotel’s past and famous former guests are dotted around the corridors, making for fascinating viewing.
The underground health spa is free to access for hotel guests. It has an indoor swimming pool, loungers, sauna and steam room and a small gym. By evening, the hotel gets busy as the bars and restaurants fill with external guests.
The food
There are three restaurants to choose from – Number One serves fine-dining contemporary dishes with Scottish ingredients, while Palm Court is an opulent afternoon tea spot set under a skylight. We dine at Brasserie Prince, where French cuisine is married with Scottish produce. Opting for the locally sourced oysters to start is highly recommended – the Tobermory oysters are perhaps the best I’ve ever tasted. For mains, we try the roast lamb loin and belly (£31), which is served with smoky mashed potato and is perfectly cooked. We order coffee at the end of the meal and are surprised to receive a piece of home-made fudge on the side, perfect as a desert alternative if you’re feeling full.
The service
From the minute we walk in until checkout, service is friendly and faultless. There’s a lovely level of banter, but not so much that it overshadows staff’s professionalism.
Highs and lows
Check out the swimming pool and health club – the space has been restored with original stained glass windows. There aren’t too many lows but if we’re nitpicking, the bathroom is a little on the small side.
The insider tip
The hotel clock is set three minutes ahead so that guests don’t miss their trains from the station next door.
The verdict
If you’re heading to Scotland, book a stay here. The hotel has the perfect location and comes with a fascinating history and first-rate hospitality.
The bottom line
Rates start from £450 ($557) per night; check-in at 3pm and checkout at noon; www.roccofortehotels.com.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects standards during this time. Services may change in the future