SUMMER SPIN THROUGH SCOTLAND REVEALS DIVERSE DESTINATION OF STUNNING SCENERY AND URBAN BUZZ REVEALS DIVERSE AND URBAN BUZZ
▶ From the silent sentinels of castle ramparts and rugged landscapes to the pulsing heart of Edinburgh, there are two different sides to the historic country, finds Scott Campbell
Visiting the UK and choosing to avoid venturing outside London is a bit like flying to New York and never straying beyond the neon dazzle of Times Square, or jetting to Paris only to do laps around the Eiffel Tower.
Step outside the UK capital’s buzz and a treasure trove of history, culture and jaw-dropping scenery awaits. Scotland reigns supreme with its untamed beauty, enchanting lochs and cities that echo with ancient history. It offers an adventure that’s as diverse as it is captivating, plus a host of new attractions.
Occupying the northern part of Britain, Scotland is a nation far removed from desert dunes and the scene is dramatically different from its southern neighbour, England. Here, rugged mountains and ancient castles scatter the horizon, the haunting melody of bagpipes fill the air and the local accent – a rich, thick brogue – challenges the ear, especially for those who wander off the beaten path and into the heart of the Highlands.
But Scotland’s allure isn’t just in its landscapes or lore, it’s also in its high-profile admirers. Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid, Vice President of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai, has found beauty here, owning a vast estate on the Isle of Skye. Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed, Crown Prince of Dubai, is often seen exploring Scotland’s northern shores. And the connection doesn’t end with visits from rulers – direct flights from Dubai and Doha cater to a recent surge in travel demand, spurred by the UK’s move to ease visa regulations for Gulf visitors, creating a bridge from the Middle East to Scotland’s mystique.
Though the country’s sweeping vistas might seem worlds away from any urban buzz, diving into a Braveheart fantasy is surprisingly easy. A mere 30-minute jaunt from Glasgow lands you at Cameron House, a lavish five-star retreat that emerges from lush forest and rolling hills beside the almost mystical Loch Lomond. The 17th-century building marks the threshold of the Highlands – there’s even a sign to prove it.
This historic resort, once the home of famed novelist Tobias Smollett and more unusually a troupe of grizzly bears (a quirky nod to a previous owner’s wildlife fascination), now welcomes guests with the warmth of traditional Scottish hospitality. Think tartan aplenty and doormen decked out in kilts, offering a taste of Highland heritage without skimping on the sense of luxury – something that visitors from the Middle East will probably appreciate.
According to the hotel’s director, Michael Lavizani, most guests from the region come for the cooler climate, then stay for the activities, which include speed boat rides, archery and an on-site thermal spa. There are also easy links to Glasgow, one of the UK’s best shopping cities.
“You have landscapes that have been untouched for thousands of years, Scotland’s only private sea plane right on the loch, and you’re also within half an hour of a Christian Dior boutique,” says Lavizani.
An hour’s drive from Cameron House through the heart of Perthshire is Gleneagles. This renowned hotel, a jewel of the Roaring Twenties and often hailed as the Riviera of the Highlands, has played host to luminaries from Sir Sean Connery and John Travolta to Tony Blair. The hotel’s fusion of ultra-luxury and a staggering array of more than 60 activities has in recent years earned it a new nickname – the Glorious Playground.
Here, suites tucked into turrets and cocooned beneath castellations offer sprawling estate views, with rich velvets and quirky print wallpapers marrying the allure of yesteryear with the polish of modern luxury. These spaces are a haven after days filled with clay pigeon shooting, falconry, or the traditional art of gun dog training. Not to forget the trio of championship golf courses, horse stables, and mini Land Rovers for little adventurers. The hotel has also reported an influx of guests from the Middle East of late, with numbers doubling annually over the past five years and travellers primarily hailing from the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain and Qatar. Gleneagles managing director Conor O’Leary sees the trend as a testament to a “well-travelled” demographic that is eager to “immerse the great outdoors”.
Dispelling the myth of large Gulf family groups renting out entire hotel wings in London’s poshest districts, it’s smaller groups that venture to the Highlands, embracing the offerings without the need for customisation. “Initially, we anticipated visitors from London seeking an add-on weekend,” O’Leary says. “Now we’re seeing guests flying directly to Scotland for week-long expeditions into the Highlands.”
O’Leary says visitors from the Gulf are particularly drawn to hawk hunting – joining a legacy that began with the world’s first falconry school at Gleneagles in 1982 – as well as castle explorations, land walks and deer stalking on the estate. Scotland’s famously capricious weather acts not as a deterrent, but as a magnet for guests from sunnier regions.
“Certain areas and hotels in London are very oversubscribed with Middle Eastern visitors during the summer months, so guests come to Gleneagles to see Scotland and dial down the speed in a colder climate,” he explains.
Journeying from the rugged expanse of the Highlands to the cobbled, history-soaked streets of Edinburgh reveals a new wave of hotel and restaurants openings that are shaking up Scotland’s hospitality scene. The ancient stones of the Royal Mile, weathered by centuries of history, no
Gulf visitors are drawn to hawk hunting – joining a legacy that began with the world’s first falconry school at Gleneagles
longer only lead to tartan and complimentary shortbread – but to fresher, more youthful properties that appeal to a new wave of global travellers.
Alongside stalwarts like The Scotsman Hotel and The Balmoral, visitors are flocking to Richard Branson’s edgy Virgin Hotels, the affordable and stylish Motel One and the sultry, velvet-draped House of Gods.
The latest addition to the scene is the W Edinburgh, cutting a striking figure with its spiralling bronze facade that boldly swirls up from the New Town skyline. The doormen wear kilts here too, but with a twist – they’re sleek all-black ensembles, a marked departure from the bright colours of traditional tartan.
Inside, ultra-stylish rooms give a nod to national heritage with subtle tartan accents and walls adorned with portraits by Scottish-born fashion photographer Jodie Mann. Yet, with its dramatic fire pits, avantgarde revolving circular beds, and sweeping floor-to-ceiling windows, the W Edinburgh boldly declares that it’s time to embrace a new era of Scottish hospitality.
Seizing the opportunity to bridge the old and new, Gleneagles recently unveiled its first urban pied-a-terre in a grand former bank building a few streets from the
W Edinburgh. Echoing the elegance of its rural sibling, The Townhouse offers bedrooms that ooze style, combining woody greens with blush-toned canopied beds and soft velvet chairs that create an enclave of sophistication in a busy corner of the capital.
While it’s primarily a trendy members’ club, Gleneagles Townhouse is open for all to stay. During my visit, I even see Harry Potter star Ralph Fiennes rubbing shoulders with the city’s hoi polloi at breakfast – and he’s not the only visitor in town looking for something new.
Dining under the ornate corniced ceilings of The Spence, the hotel’s restaurant and rooftop bar, the chatter is not only in English but Arabic, French, Italian and a generous dose of Scots. A typical Tuesday in a nation that’s mastered the art of global hospitality with a local twist.