MELIUS It means ‘the best’ in Latin, but is it really?

he newest restaurant to open in Masdar City bills itself as both an Italian and Arabic outlet, despite its strictly rustic decor. Exposed brickwork and pipes snake up along the wall while trendy rope chandeliers and Edison bulbs warm up the loft-like interior. There’s even Italian music playing and cans of olive oil and tomato tins on display. Yet the owners are adamant it’s a celebration of both cuisines.

Even though two cuisines are on offer, don’t expect a fusion of flavours – it simply serves up traditional dishes side by side. While the menu has a handful of Arabic staples (hummus, mixed grill

Tand a selection of mezze) on offer, it’s the Italian dishes that dominate – and that you should order.

A platter of hot mezze to start featured cheese rolls, spinach fatayer and kibbeh. While the mezze were nice, they didn’t stand out. The calamari rings, too, fell a little short, and the outer coating was too dry and they were served with two dipping sauces instead of the three listed on the menu.

For a twist on a traditional pizza, you could try the Montanara Fritta. Large triangles of dough were fried and topped with buffalo mozzarella, tomato sauce and balsamic vinegar. Served with a layer of marinated greens and cherry tomatoes, the dish was delicious.

The mixed grill came with a few potato wedges and was served with a spicy harrissa cream sauce. While the chicken and lamb skewers were cooked well, the beef was a touch dry.

Make sure, though, to save space for dessert. Both the tiramisu and white chocolate soup were wolfed down. The soup was paired with a chocolate mousse to balance the sweetness, while the tiramisu was full of rich, coffee flavour. While you’re there, check out the counter full of drool-worthy pastries and cakes near the till.

While we can’t recommend you drive out to Masdar specifically for the food, if you do find yourself in the area a visit to Melius is pleasant enough, although some menu items need a bit of work.

Irena HQ building, Masdar City, Abu Dhabi, daily 10am to 10pm. Tel: (02) 4182481. Taxi: Masdar City, groundfloor of Irena HQ building. melius.ae