WHERE TO STAY

Espinas Hotel

In a city devoid of international hotel chains the Espinas is a fivestar treat. Not to be confused with the Espinas Palace, the Espinas is located within a stone’s throw of Laleh Park, one of the city’s best-kept green spaces. Expect luxury and great dining. Double rooms start at $130 per night.

Markazi Hotel

Not the greatest hotel you’ll ever stay in, but what the Markazi lacks in finesse it makes up for in location. Located on Lalezar, a street consisting entirely of shops selling light-bulbs and chandeliers, the Grand Bazaar, Golestan Palace and many of the city’s best cafes and restaurants are all within walking distance. Basic and cheap but friendly. Double rooms start at $30 per night. hotelmarkazi.com

Parsian Azadi Hotel

If it’s views of the city you’re after then the Parsian’s the ticket. Towering above most of northern Tehran, the hotel provides some of the city’s greatest views. The lodging of choice for visiting dignitaries, it offers five-star accommodation that is, however, located, far from much of what you’ll want to see. Double rooms start at $65 per night. azadihotel.com