ABU DHABI

Pan-Asian flavours at Aja; authentic Japanese at Matsu; and eco-minded dining at 90 Centigrade

Aja was formerly exclusive to guests of the super-luxe all-inclusive desert island resort, but as of February this year it’s been open to gourmands everywhere.

Journeying from resort to restaurant, there is a sharp key change in ambiance and design. The grand Ottoman-inspired opulence of the hotel abruptly gives way to modern Japanese, wood and tile finishes.

A subconscious cascade of cherry blossom falls.

For alfresco-friendly months there’s an exterior courtyard setting in addition to the expansive interior space. You can pull up a stall at teppanyaki tables in both areas, but you’ll need to book in advance.

We came to sample the a la carte menu, which after brief consultation reveals a blend of Asian (predominantly Japanese) and European cuisine.

Aja’s menu includes traditional Asian dishes such as sushi, maki, sashimi, ramen, Thai soups and salads in addition to European dishes that have been given an eastern enhancement.

After finishing a bowl of pleasantlyseasoned edamame, our palates are primed for an umami party. We chose beef tartare (Dhs75) and a shrimp tower (Dhs70) to start our meal.

The tartare was served with celeriac puree and horseradish vinegarette — and although it ticked all the important boxes for salt, spice and acid flavours, there was a presence of citrus in the vinegarette that we found overpowered the neatly chopped sirloin rather than raised it.

The shrimp tower was generous and stacked with precision-cooked prawns that were firm, juicy and rimmed with just the right level of crisp.

For our main course, the attentive and polite wait staff brought us grilled tenderloin (Dhs135) and seabass

(Dhs130).

Each dish had been given an Asian massage, the grilled tenderloin was dressed in hoisin sauce. The seabass clad in a rice vinegar and soya sauce.

We enjoyed the Chinese hoisin twist to the sirloin, but the dish suffered from a subprime cut. There was cause for applause as well as disappointing flaws in the execution of the sea bass too. The overall plate was an enjoyable eat, but the fillet was thin, and ever so slightly overcooked.

The flavours of the principle ingredient should be what stands out, to be romanced by marinades and sides. With everything else in place, it’s a quick and simple issue to fix, and once you realise that it’s clear that there isn’t much standing between what we experienced at Aja and truly dazzling dining.

We would happily return again, to play tapas with their sushi and appetisers, and also give the fusion mains another try. We’ve heard good things about their confit duck leg.

Rixos Premium Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, Tue to Sun 6.30pm to 10.30pm. Tel: (02) 4922222. saadiyatisland.rixos.com