TORI NO SU

Setting suitably high standards in Japanese fine dining at Conrad Abu Dhabi Etihad Towers

Alittle Japanese lesson to start: Tori No Su literally translates to ‘ bird’s nest’. It’s pretty apt, then, that Tori No Su is nestled in the corner of the skyscraping shards that comprise Conrad Abu Dhabi Etihad Towers.

Cool and slick, the recently revamped destination is a fun mix of traditional and modern Japanese culture. Classic sushi and ramen dishes appear alongside contemporary flavour combinations, while the elegant dining room is jazzed up with neon light features (you won’t be able to resist getting a shot with the luminous wings) and chic, yet casual staff donning colourful cartoon T-shirts and swanky ‘mom-style’ jeans.

We’re immediately impressed by the vast array of starters and it’s difficult to decide which little morsels to choose. However, realising that there are only four main course options confirms our feeling that this is a spot to share a number of light bites, rather than have your own hearty dish.

Not feeling quite adventurous enough to try the sea urchin Wagyu roll, we start with some beautifully presented sashimi and sushi.

The rounded robata chicken skewers and mighty shrimp tempura are expertly made. We could order several rounds of small bites and call it a night here. Indeed, the fact that the grilled sweetcorn is one of our top picks, just goes to show what superb ingredients and immense skill goes into each recipe.

The charred broccolini salad is delightful, although we wish we had ordered it along with our mains. Cooked al dente and covered in a creamy sesame dressing, it would have been a brilliant accompaniment to the chicken teriyaki and miso black cod. The delicate white fish of the latter is so soft it practically melts away in your mouth.

It’s surprising to hear that the yuzu miso burrata is a bestseller. But, then again, what UAE menu doesn’t feature at least one appearance from this cheese?

Admittedly, the Japanese-inspired crème brûlée is a totally divine and caramel-like conclusion, so we’re not adverse to the less authentic dishes. Meanwhile, the mochi, served dramatically impaled on a thick metal skewer, comes with a theatrical trail of dry ice that spills all over the table. We find it all hugely entertaining and the indulgent little ice creams are gorgeous and creamy.

New head chef Yosuke Matsuoka needn’t worry about living up to his predecessor. In fact, his fresh and innovative approach to dining could bring this hotspot a whole legion of new fans.

Conrad Abu Dhabi Etihad Towers, Wed to Mon 7pm to midnight. Tel: (0)28115555. @torinosu.conradetihadtowers