ANTONIA A little pizza something special on Mamsha Al Saadiyat

The promenade at Mamsha Al Saadiyat cuts a border between the calming yin of bone-white beach and the gluttonous yang of a restaurant strip. It feels very much like a stretch of European Riviera.

Sitting on the bright terrace spaces of this gastronomic meridian, as we are now, it’s practically impossible to avoid the enchantment of the uniquely beautiful coastline. We’re camped out at Antonia, an uncontrived licensed Roman restaurant with the chief menu proposition of pizza al taglio (pizzas ‘by the slice’).

On the menu are crispy calamari (Dhs85), suppli (risotto balls, from Dhs12) and burrata (Dhs85). We gaze lustfully at traditional, bonafide-Italiano pasta and risotto options, too. Dishes such as bucatini all’amatriciana (Dhs80), tomato sauce, pancetta, and pecorino cheese; gnocchi alla Sorrentina (Dhs85) with homemade ricotta gnocchi, tomato sauce, Parmesan, mozzarella and basil; and risotto ai porcini e scamorza, which comes with carnaroli risotto (Dhs95), porcini mushrooms, parmesan and scamorza. Today is about the pizza though. At Antonia you can choose between full or half trays of their square-baked pizzas (half is good for one person). There’s also the option to get a selection of them ‘by the slice’ (from around Dhs25).

We order one slice of diavola (the traditional Italian version of a salami pizza) and one of tartufo e funghi (a classic mushroom and truffle option). They are both a triumph.

First, the 72-hour fermented Italianprovenance sourdough base is a masterpiece. It’s light and airy, puffed up with self-appreciation of its layered earthy flavour. There’s crunch and bite in that dough. There is a more objective measure of just how good a pizza base is. Keep an eye on the servers returning plates to the kitchen. How many of them have the discarded, uneaten crusts on? At Antonia, it’s a clean sweep, only immaculate, crustless plates head back to the potwashers.

We tear through the diavola, each foray into the mouth echoes with the aroma of authentic European beef salami, tomato sauce that is unmistakenly the result of genuine Italian culinary craft, and warming tones of chilli oil.

The tartufo e funghi is a fitting bedfellow, part balancing act part spin-off show, it’s an artful montage of individual rustic chords pulled straight outta the Roman ‘campagnaside’.

Verdict: Is this the best pizza in Abu Dhabi? Miei amici, it very probably is.

Mamsha Al Saadiyat, Saadiyat Island, midday to 11pm. Tel: (02) 667 2554. @antonia.uae