Elephants look good in top hats.

Dubai welcomes two animals to the dining scene: a lion and an elephant

The Black Lion

While the name suggests an English pub with sticky carpets, the reality is that The Black Lion is a fancy new gastropub. A giant black door greets you, bearing a lion’s head doorknocker (go on, give it a bash).

Inside, it’s cosy and inviting. Thankfully, the place has retained the windows from its former incarnation as Bapas. The menu is American/ British with dishes such as fried chicken, mac and cheese, and sweetcorn hush puppies beside fish pie, lamb hot pot, and fish and chips.

The fish pie (Dhs120) and lamb hot pot (Dhs130) came in cute mini casserole dishes with lids on and were so hot we had to leave them for several minutes – a true test of willpower as the aromas infiltrated the nostrils. Both were densely packed with seafood/lamb, and well flavoured.

A salad of steak and crisp gem lettuce (Dhs72) was jazzed up superbly with pickled pears, walnuts and blue cheese, each ingredient synchronised to give a tasty mouthful. The side of mac and cheese (Dhs25), however, needed a more tangy cheese to punch through the pasta.

If you’re in a group, the ‘Truck Stop’ platter is fun (Dhs170). A wooden board laden with mac and cheese balls, chicken wings, red cabbage slaw, two mini burgers, and those sweetcorn hush puppies made the tastebuds roar.

Fish and chips: Dhs110 Burger: Dhs75 Pint of Heineken: Dhs43

The H Dubai, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, daily 11am to 3am. Tel: (04) 5018888. Metro: World Trade Centre. h-hotel.com

Eloquent Elephant

First of all, what a wonderful name. You can’t help but enunciate every consonant with a raised eyebrow and stiff upper lip.

The Eloquent Elephant has been handsomely designed, with a lovely oak floor, racing green leather seating, more than a scattering of Edison light bulbs and anthropomorphic elephant paintings on the walls.

The bar is an idealised version of an old drinking haunt where pints of craft ale are enjoyed at wooden tables. Bar snacks are a cut-above: truffled chips (Dhs55); Cajun popcorn chicken with blue cheese dressing (Dhs45); and artichoke fritters with black olive cream (Dhs50).

The Wagyu burger (Dhs115) was a perfectly cooked patty elevated to star status by homemade tomato sauce and a thick slice of cheddar. The accompanying fat chips were sensational with a crispy coating and a soft, fluffy centre.

The eggplant parmigiana (Dhs100) – one of two veggie mains on the menu – arrived as a huge square slab of aubergine and cheese layers, resting on a bed of tomato sauce. It could have done with more seasoning but a hefty clout of thyme helped break through the cheesy heap. A side of purple mash added a welcome dose of colour.

With little nooks, The Eloquent Elephant has a comfortable atmosphere. Come with an appetite, a charming disposition and you’ll fit right in.

Fish and chips: Dhs100 Burger: Dhs115 Pint of Heineken: Dhs45

Taj Dubai, Burj Khalifa Street, Business Bay, Dubai, Sun to Thur noon to 2am, Fri and Sat 11am to 2am. Tel: (04) 4383100. Metro: Business Bay. facebook.com/TajDubai