Hell’s Kitchen

Things are heat­ing up on Blue­wa­ters

What's On (Dubai) - - CONSUME -

Not con­tent to have just one restau­rant in Dubai, Gor­don Ram­say has opened Hell’s Kitchen – named af­ter his hit TV show where chefs face-off to prove them­selves to the master – at Cae­sars Palace on Blue­wa­ters Is­land.

The first Hell’s Kitchen is lo­cated in the heart of Ve­gas, and has been cel­e­brat­ing a roar­ing trade ever since it opened ear­lier in 2018. Sim­i­larly, Bread St Kitchen at At­lantis, The Palm is al­most al­ways full, lined with tourists des­per­ate to sam­ple a taste of Ram­say’s sig­na­ture style. So can the an­i­mated chef em­u­late his suc­cess on Blue­wa­ters is­land? We made the trip across the bridge to try it out.

Made to feel like you’re in an ac­tual episode of Hell’s Kitchen – mi­nus, thank­fully, on­go­ing com­pe­ti­tion be­tween war­ring chefs – the high-ceilinged space in­side Cae­sars Palace is sleek and shiny, with a slight Art Deco feel and plenty of the show’s sig­na­ture pitch­forks hid­den through­out (in­clud­ing in the light fix­tures hang­ing from the ceil­ing). The redand-blue open kitchen is the dra­matic cen­tre­piece of the restau­rant, and while pro­mo­tional ma­te­ri­als claim that it will make guests “feel like they are on the stu­dio set,” it thank­fully isn’t overly dis­tract­ing.

Avid fans of the show will recog­nise that many dishes on the menu are some of the items that con­tes­tants had to cre­ate on the se­ries, such as the pan-seared scal­lops, lobster risotto, beef Welling­ton, and sticky tof­fee pud­ding.

We dive straight in with the lobster risotto (Dhs135) served with an enor­mous but­ter-poached tail on a bed of pip­ing hot saf­fron-in­fused risotto. It was creamy and pi­quant while the ten­der lobster helped make the dish feel meatier. Mean­while, the rack of lamb (Dhs210) was a hearty, homely gas­tropub dish, ex­cel­lent in its sim­plic­ity be­cause of the top qual­ity of the meat, with its slightly gamy edge. Sim­i­larly, the braised short rib (Dhs165) was de­li­cious (if maybe too heavy to eat along­side the lamb).

The dish we cooed about the most was hid­den among the side dishes: the baked mac­a­roni and cheese was com­fort food­turned-tour de force, with the smol­der­ing in­ten­sity of smoked Gouda cre­at­ing a de­li­ciously thick lava of salty fon­due.

For dessert, we chose an­other Ram­say clas­sic, the sticky tof­fee pud­ding (Dhs60) topped with a scoop of specu­loos ice cream. The cake was warm, soft, and burst­ing with com­fort­ing flavours of brown su­gar and vanilla, and the cold specu­loos ice cream on top took the deca­dence over the edge.

Over­all, a thor­oughly en­joy­able – and over-in­dul­gent – Hell’s Kitchen ex­pe­ri­ence. The restau­rant could eas­ily coast by on its name­sake brand, but the at­ten­tion-tode­tail, ex­cel­lent ser­vice and qual­ity dishes prove that this team is hell-bent on be­ing more than just a themed restau­rant.

Cae­sars Palace Blue­wa­ters Dubai, daily 7am to 10.30am, noon to 3.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm. cae­sars.com/dubai

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