Is it style over sub­stance at this stun­ning foun­tain view spot?

What's On (Dubai) - - CONSUME -

Zeta is the fi­nal piece in the Ad­dress Down­town puz­zle, as the last restau­rant to open in the ho­tel af­ter it’s near two-and-a-hal­fyear re­fur­bish­ment. But what does this ‘Mediter­rasian’ restau­rant bring to the plate that’s not al­ready on the ta­ble? Perched on the fur­thest edge of the ho­tel ter­race, it’s ac­cessed by a wooden bridge and lit up by twinkly lights. It guides you over the ho­tel’s ex­pan­sive in­fin­ity pool, and cer­tainly nails it when it comes to first im­pres­sions.

It’s just as im­pres­sive once you reach the host­ess desk. The open-air space is sur­pris­ingly big, but clev­erly split into a restau­rant and lounge so it still feels in­ti­mate wher­ever you sit. The lounge side has bean­bags on the shisha ter­race and high bar stools lin­ing the wall, gaz­ing out to­wards the glit­ter­ing Burj Khal­ifa. On the restau­rant side, there’s still some pretty strik­ing views, with ro­man­tic ta­bles for two all Burj Khal­ifa-fac­ing, while big ca­banas line the back, likely ser­vic­ing cus­tomers from the pool dur­ing the day. The set­ting is un­de­ni­ably im­pres­sive – but does the ‘Mediter­rasian’ food mea­sure up? On our visit, it’s a con­cise two-page menu; one page for the Mediter­ranean dishes, one for the Asian, but the ex­ec­u­tive chef ad­vises us that a much longer menu that leans harder to­wards Mediter­ranean than Asian is com­ing next week. It makes sense, con­sid­er­ing Ja­panese Ro­bata, Katana, is just down­stairs. We kick off with the mixed sushi plat­ter (Dhs260), beau­ti­fully pre­sented on a bed of ice and split into sushi, sashimi and ni­giri. Every­thing is fresh and tasty but if we had to pick a favourite it would be the Cal­i­for­nia roll, fresh flakes of crab rolled with cu­cum­ber and av­o­cado and topped with to­biko. We fol­low it up with the Wagyu beef tartare (Dhs120) and chicken karaage (Dhs75). While the chicken is good, it’s noth­ing spe­cial, although it’s com­pli­mented by a spiced yuzu dip that’s punchy and gives it a wel­come kick. The tartare is a plate of del­i­cately diced beef ten­der­loin, lay­ered with yuzu and tog­a­rashi, which make for a unique taste.

To fin­ish, try the key lime tart (Dhs45) – three per­fectly plated cit­rus tarts with a crunchy meringue stick. Or for some­thing ul­tra-rich, opt for the warm choco­late fon­dant (Dhs45). It’s a warm fon­dant of 64 per cent man­jari choco­late topped with a scoop of strong mocha ice cream.

Ad­dress Down­town, Down­town Dubai, Sat to Wed 4pm to mid­night, Thur and Fri 4pm to 1am. Tel: (04) 8883444. ad­dressho­tels.com

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