NOBU

Does the iconic miso cod last the distance?

ne of Dubai – and the world’s – most recognisable restaurant brands, Nobu has achieved the kind of singlenamed stardom usually reserved for music and sports royalty.

You don’t reach such lofty heights without sweating the small stuff – and the Nobu home delivery service is no different.

Nobu’s Dubai restaurant, at Atlantis, The Palm, is one of a number of local fine-dining restaurants that have made the transition to delivery, due to the coronavirus pandemic.

It can’t have been an easy feat to pivot from handcrafted ceramics and lacquered chopsticks to disposable plastic and bamboo versions, but the team has done a commendable effort of upholding the quality.

The care in plating and presentation is evident. Each tiny pot of accompanying sauce or garnish has been painstakingly labelled – the names and instructions printed on small squares of paper, then taped to the lids.

This meticulous, hands-on approach goes some ways to explaining the lengthy delivery time, which clocks in at about 90 minutes from placing the order to receiving it in JBR.

OSome dishes have survived the journey from Palm Jumeirah better than others. The shrimp tempura sushi roll with asparagus (Dhs75) is in fine form, and up to the standard you’d expect if you dined in. So too are the hot mains, particularly the salmon teriyaki (Dhs159) and chicken anticucho (Dhs169), which arrive warm, tender and crunchy in all the right places.

The star on Nobu’s Japanese-Peruvian menu is undoubtedly the black cod miso (Dhs239). In situ, it is a thing of beauty: the firm white fish charred and sticky at the edges, with a luscious fatty richness inside. Unfortunately, it doesn’t reach such lusty heights when it’s had to travel on the back of a motorbike – tasty yes, but the textures lack the nuance of the fresh-fromthe-kitchen version.

The salmon tacos (Dhs40 each) with spicy mayonnaise divided the table, with some finding the raw salmon filling too warm, and others proclaiming it dish of the night.

There’s no such debate when it comes to dessert. And although the

Nobu cheesecake (Dhs75) looks a little crestfallen after its journey, once the accompanying tubs of berry sauce and buttery crumble are added, all is forgiven. The cheesecake walks a tightrope between light and indulgent, crunchy and creamy, with a hint of salt in the biscuit base to balance the delicate sweetness.

Before you balk at the prices, it’s worth noting Nobu is offering 30 per cent off its delivery menu. Even with the discount it’s still expensive, but not prohibitively so. Save this one for a date night at home.

delivery, Atlantis, The Palm. Order via Talabat or Zomato