New Lebanese eatery in Umm Al Sheif

ou don’t just happen upon the restaurants along Sheikh Zayed Road. You’re not likely to stroll past, and you’re often driving by at such speeds that the names whiz by in a blur. So, when we visit Al Beiruti Restau-Café during a midweek lunch, and find the huge Umm Al Sheif space filled with happy diners, it’s clear they’re doing something right.

With the clang of the open kitchen, a profusion of plants and the buzz of diners reverberating off the tile and concrete floors, the industrial-chic dining room feels instantly inviting.

The menu feels warm and familiar, too,

Yoffering a lengthy line-up of Lebanese staples. Breakfasts of shakshouka and fresh-baked manakeesh lead into bright salads, sandwich platters and smoky grills.

There’s a freshness and vitality to the cold dishes, such as watermelon salad with salty nabulsi cheese (Dhs38), and gaba ganoush (Dhs25) with pomegranate and mint.

Hummus with pine nuts and meat (Dhs37) and Al Beiruti kebbe (Dhs38) are substantial and satisfying, although the kebbe’s pool of pomegranate molasses may be too cloying for some.

Featuring tender shish tawouk, grilled lamb, gently spiced kafta, excellent handcut chips, chargrilled vegetables, toum, and parsley-flecked flatbread, the mixed grill (Dhs62 for 250g) is a meal in itself.

It’s hard not to over-order here, but as the large groups of diners (and portion sizes) will attest, this is food that’s best shared with a crowd – and worth a detour off Sheikh Zayed Road.

Al Sheif, Exit 41, Sheikh Zayed

Rd, daily 8am to 2am. Tel: (04) 320 0043. albeiruti.com