PUNJAB GRILL
The What’s On Abu Dhabi award-winning chef opens a new progressive Indian restaurant in Business Bay
Nestled in the luxurious Oberoi Dubai, Punjab Grill offers a contemporary spin on Indian classics under the direction of chef Sandeep Ali. He has briefly departed the Abu Dhabi outpost to set up this new sister restaurant in Dubai. So impressed was our Abu Dhabi team by Chef Sandeep’s culinary skills that we awarded him Chef of the Year at the What’s On Abu Dhabi awards last March.
So, it’s with voluminous anticipation that we venture into his new restaurant, which occupies the space of the onceloved Ananta.
“I’m a little more nervous opening in Dubai,” admits Chef Sandeep, who greets us warmly at the entrance of the vastly white dining room. “I knew there were so many fine dining Indian restaurants in Dubai so it’s much harder to stand out.” His answer to combat the competition was to create a menu of progressive Indian dishes that champion the small and large plates rather than its curries. “We’ve put the curries on the last pages, because they kind of need to be there, but I’d like guests to try something really different.”
Following his recommendations, we embark on an exciting modern spice odyssey where each plate is a culinary piece of art.
The highlights were many: there’s a stunning sesame and coconut fried prawn (Dhs75) resting atop a neat swirl of ragi noodles (otherwise known as finger millet ‘superfood’ noodles), and rich broth.
The Kashmiri lamb chops are a glorious, spice-crusted exercise in bone nibblage, served with a pounded walnut and radish chutney (Dhs190) and rogan josh gravy. And, in an age when you can’t move for deep-fried bird, the plate of tender masala chicken (Dhs120) encased in crispy potato salli, is a distinctive and satisfying dish. Alongside these come extremely well-executed basics: stuffed flaky parathas and fire-blistered garlic naans.
Props also to Chef Sandeep for adding Dibba Bay oysters to his menu. “Oh, we’re venturing far from traditional Indian cuisine here, which never serves raw food,” he says, while gently lowering a sand-coloured bowl onto the table. Inside, there’s a raw oyster covered in a black makhani gravy, coconut pearls, and golden leaves. While visually jarring (black sauce, white balls, golden flakes on blue-coloured ice) it’s an amusing example of blending Indian tradition with innovation – and it tastes pretty darn good, too.
Usually at this point in an Indian meal, we typically roll out the door skipping desert, but there’s a boldly sweet filo pastry cigar roll layered with carrot halwa (Dhs40) cooked down in milk and sugar that nearly almost stole the whole show.
Will Punjab Grill replace our weekly Indian order from our favourite local? Truthfully, no it won’t. Because there’s something about eating seconds of chicken tikka and chana malasa in your PJs that’s almost ritualistic. But, as a new alternative to fine dining modern Indian cuisine? Punjab Grill in the city’s biggest contender.
The Oberoi, Dubai, daily 11.30am to 11.30pm. Tel: (050) 1941107. @punjabgrilldubai