WILD A guide to the best spots to take the plunge

Swimming i n t he

Over the past decade, swimmers around the world have been turning their backs on dull swimming pools in favour of the planet’s almost limitless natural swimming spots. Just as surfers crisscrossed the globe in the 1970s in search of the best breaks, swimmers are now on the move, travelling the world to find new places to dive into.

The experience of swimming outdoors was what drove the revolution in the beginning: the rediscovery of what it felt like to be in a river, or lake, or sea; how immersion managed to make you feel calm and energised at the same time. Swimmers often talk about how they find their “still point” through water, how it shocks them back to life. They say swimming helps them find their “tribe”, forging deep connections to other swimmers and to the landscape that surrounds them when they are swimming.

The opportunity to enjoy new parts of the natural world is what most thrills many people in the wild swimming community. Whether it’s a river pool just a few miles from your house, or a wadi in Oman, water allows ordinary people to discover something new. There are rivers to swim down, seas to cross, and remote mountain lakes to catalogue. You can dip into ice holes, paddle in river pools and waterfalls, and escape into the bright turquoise underworld of cenotes.

It’s a bit of a shame that the term wild swimming even exists. This is an activity, after all, almost as old as humanity itself. I hope the wild will be dropped in time. Let’s make “pool swimmers” the outliers. Here are some of the best outdoor swimming spots to inspire you to join the revolution.

Downstream swims don’t come much more spectacular than the River Dart in Devon, England. It’s one of the most iconic British swims: flanked by old oaks and rolling hills, the Outdoor Swimming Society Dart 10K is an education in water and landscape. The 10K course — just over six miles — is an endurance test, perhaps the swimmer’s equivalent to a marathon. The route begins narrow and the water there is relatively fresh; it becomes more brackish as the river widens and the closer swimmers get to the coast. The course is marked out by natural markers: a cormorant tree, the Sharpham Bends, the entrance to a huge creek. As they progress downstream together, swimmers become more like a community rather than competitors. The Outdoor Swimming Society has even invented its own collective noun to suit the experience: a contentment of swimmers.

Once a year, almost 2,000 people take to the waters of the Bosphorus — a sea strait that runs through the centre of Istanbul and usually operates as a major shipping channel — for an annual swimming race. Every July since 1988, the city has opened up the strait for the Bosphorus Cross Continental Swim, which begins on the Asian side of Istanbul and finishes on the European side. Huge tankers are held up on either side of the four- mile course to allow the race to go ahead. The water itself is clear and fast. Take all the advice you can get from other swimmers about avoiding eddies ( swirling currents) around an island in the middle, and when to start heading toward the finish line to avoid being swept right past it by the powerful current. But seeing as you swim under two of Istanbul’s huge landmark bridges, remember to take a minute to simply enjoy the view.

Iceland is a swimmer’s paradise — full of hot pots and pools that make use of the island’s geothermal energy, offering warm swims in a cold climate. You can swim in hot rivers, whizz down water slides and dip in hot pots that are signposted from highways everywhere. Most hot pots are free ( and have changing shelters to protect you from the icy winds), though they can vary from purpose- built pools to repurposed cheese tubs.

One of my favourite swims is Iceland’s oldest swimming pool: a 92- by- 32- foot pool hidden in the Seljavellir valley in the south of the country. Filled with hot spring water, the pool was originally constructed in 1923 to teach Icelanders how to swim. It occupies possibly the most stunning location of any swimming pool on Earth: on one side is a rocky cliff wall, while the other side leads down into the river valley. It takes about 10 to 40 minutes to walk there from a parking spot at the end of a gravel road, and you can hop between rocks all along the Laugara river’s black sand beaches. It is a

ULTIMATE GETAWAY: Escape to a cenote like this one in Ik Kil Eco- Archaeological Park, Mexico

TAKE A DIP: 1 A tourist overlooks Wadi Shab in Oman from the edge of a canyon 2 A young swimmer jumps into the Bosphorus river in Istanbul 3 Ice swimming — making a hole in the thick ice of a lake — is a popular pastime in Finland peaceful, joyful, open place, and when the sun shines, the water becomes the colour of fresh spring grass. Above are snow- capped mountains and a meltwater river falling down a gully in stages. There are no lifeguards and no rules — except, perhaps, be friendly to other bathers and take away all of your own litter ( and perhaps anyone else’s, if you spot it).

Lush vineyards, warm summers, bald eagles, epic sunrises, hiking and cycle paths: the Finger Lakes of upstate New York offer a myriad of pleasures before you even get to the swimming. But the lakes here scream, “Swim me!” And pontoons, inland beaches and change houses welcome families. My ideal trip would be to rent a house with a private dock, maybe even a spare kayak, on Seneca or Cayuga, for swimming adventures. Try Airbnb or Flipkey for properties.

In the Yucatán area of southeastern Mexico, rivers are sometimes swallowed whole. The limestone bedrock is so porous that the rock collapses, exposing groundwater pools, known as cenotes. These pools were considered holy in ancient Mayan culture and were often used for sacrificial offerings. Filtered naturally by the surrounding rock, the water is left cool and clear.

If you have been lucky enough to stumble upon a cenote, you will know that they are one of nature’s most wonderful surprises: above ground lies jungle scrub, dirt and dust; beneath, a bright blue subterranean world, with tree roots acting as rope swings and ladders. Floating on your back looking up at the sky, the view framed by hanging vines and giant tropical trees, is likely to be the high point of any trip to the Yucatán.

Twenty- five years after my first random cenote encounter, I long to go back to make a map. These days, cenotes are often signposted, with walkways and within eco- parks. Some swimmers and divers venture into cave systems with headlights and torches. On my list to visit: Cenote Azul, Cenote Dzitnup, Cenote Dos Ojos, Cenote Sac Actun and Cenote Yokdzonot. Go clean and freshly washed — deodorant and sunscreen hurt the biota — and aim for early in the morning before the crowds arrive.

In the deserts of Oman, you can sometimes come across a striking oasis: green- blue water amid golden gullies. Wadis ( the Arabic word for “valley”) are usually dry but can contain water in the rainy season. Some are even fed all year round by natural springs. About a 40- minute hike from Muscat, Oman’s capital, is Wadi Shab, a popular place for a swim and barbecue. Start by wading through the pools at the bottom of towering rock stacks until you reach what appears to be an impenetrable wall of rock. Closer inspection will reveal a crack to swim through; on the other side is a water- filled cave with a waterfall. “If you’re lucky, you’ll catch the sun filtering through the roof and the rainbow it creates,” says one swim-

mer. Other wadis that offer a place for a discreet swim: Wadi Damm, Bimmah Sinkhole and Wadi Hawasinah. At Wadi Bani Khalid, which is fed by a natural spring, there are picnic spots and coffee shops. Two warnings: wadis are prone to flash floods, which can prove fatal; and it is customary in Oman to swim in a T- shirt and shorts.

An ice swimming craze is sweeping the UK, South Africa and the US, and alongside it, an international chain of ice swimming galas has flourished. But the idea of making a hole in the thick ice of a lake — simply because getting in will make you feel wonderful — is not news in Finland, Siberia, Sweden, China or many other Baltic and Nordic countries.

Finland makes my bucket list of places to swim, because there are so many lakes that during the summer months you can practically swim across the country. You can also stay in Finnish summerhouses on a tiny island. In winter, however, the real fun begins. Saunas tend to be found next to ice holes, allowing the dipper to heat up and cool down — all in a controlled environment. The combination of frozen lake, epic snowy landscape, ice hole and smoke sauna are unbeatable — and in Lapland, the northernmost region of Finland, the chances of glimpsing the Northern Lights add an extra thrill. Most ice holes are maintained by local clubs, so tourists can’t always get access. But as more tourists start to visit Finland in the hope of doing a little ice swimming, the country is opening up more and more locations. In the meantime, the Fell Centre Kiilopää near the village of Saariselkä in northern Finland has hotel rooms and cabins that allow you to enjoy river swimming and smoke saunas in style.

( Kate Rew is the author of Wild Swim, a book about swimming around the UK, and founder of the Outdoor Swimming Society, a worldwide collective of swimmers. She also founded Wildswim. com, a crowdsourced map with over 1,000 swims on it from Mongolia to Mexico.) MAKE A SPLASH: 4 River Dart is one of the most iconic British swims 5 Kids playing in Cayuga Lake, New York 6 Seljavallalaug, Iceland’s oldest pool

Ithink everyone can agree when I say sushi is a bit of an acquired taste. While it’s a delightful change from steaks and salads, the concept of eating raw seafood can be a bit daunting for the uninitiated. But the trick to really enjoying sushi ( and this is for those just getting started, not seasoned eaters) is all about picking the right items. That’s paramount because it can make or break your experience with the food preparation technique. However, that does raise other questions — what items are best to get started with? Well, that’s where a blind brunch may just come in handy.

Nestled within Four Seasons Resort at Jumeirah Beach, the walk over to their Asian restaurant Sea Fu is rather pretty. Just turn right from a gigantic swimming pool and follow a lush green path and there it is — a Mediterranean- looking haunt done up in cheerful shades of white and blue and plenty of wave- patterns. Since the more popular seating area — complete with tiled blue tabletops and wicker chairs — is located right on the beach, the colourful choice is a no brainer. Indoor seating is a lot cosier and offers the luxury of air conditioning, and while that certainly is a draw, the private beach outside beckoned. And so, my dining companion and I found ourselves enduring the afternoon heat for a glimpse of the too- goodto- be- true blue view. Point to note, there are air conditioners located outdoors as well, and you might want to get a table right next to one, unless you want to spend your meal sweating it out.

Our friendly server took the time out to explain the blind brunch concept to us; “The servings are top secret,” he joked. Basically, the idea is you don’t really know what you are going to be offered. It’s a delicious four- course meal, but you just have to take that leap of faith and hope for the best. A tricky concept, especially when paired with sushi, but a true seafood lover will always be up for the challenge.

We got started with a Sushi and Sashimi Platter, bite- sized Akami Pizzas with fresh tuna sashimi and avocado, and Freshly Shucked Oysters. I’m no expert when it comes to oysters, but these had a wonderfully fresh, chewy texture and mild, briny flavour. The Akami Pizza bites were interesting, but rather bland, and so we turned our attention to the platter, complete with Salmon and Shrimp Nigiri and Salmon Maki Rolls, accompanied by the customary soy sauce and pickled gingers. One can’t help but appreciate how the dishes have gone back to basics — this isn’t fusion of any sort. It’s as authentic as it gets.

Our next course was even more interesting — Mussels, an assortment of Steamed Dumplings and slivers of Okonomyaki Omelette, a hearty Japanese delicacy with an interesting cabbage filling. The omelette, with just a delicate hint of soy sauce, is a must- have. We found the dumplings delicious, but not quite mind- blowing. The Mussels on the other hand, took some getting used to. They were incredibly fresh, but perhaps the uncooked sea taste just isn’t for everyone.

The third course consisted of our mains, and it really did feel like each course was better than the last. The tender slices of medium- rare Wagu Beef, gently salted, was melt- in- your- mouth perfection while the mushrooms it was served with only brought out the flavour of the meat better. Sides included Stir- fried Vegetables in Schezwan Sauce, Fried Rice, Crispy Tiger Prawns in Tomato Sauce and a section of perfectly seared Black Bod. It sounds like a lot, but the portions are actually reasonable so you don’t get too stuffed. After all, dessert awaits.

I’ve always been a fan of Mochi, the delicious Japanese ice- cold rice cake, and the green tea and chocolate flavours they served did not disappoint. Besides being cold and perfectly sweet, they have a subtle tang to them that made them unique. Next on the list was a mango passion fruit pudding, a delicate biscuit filled with chocolate cream and a sweet coconut dessert. Needless to say, at this point, we were stuffed, but we still couldn’t stop.

Every Saturday brings with it a whole new menu, so fret not, we haven’t spoiled your blind brunch experience completely. As a restaurant within The Four Seasons, one has certain expectations, and Sea Fu certainly delivers. Sushi lovers are sure to get a kick out of it but, if you’re new to the experience, keep an open mind. After all, there’s something delicious about diving into the unknown.

For the wheat starch skin ( wrapper): • 200 gm potato starch • 400 gm wheat starch, plus extra • 500 ml hot water • 50 gm shortening • Pink food colouring

To garnish: • 5 gm fish roe • Few coriander leaves

Method

Combine the ingredients for the filling well. In a bowl, mix all the dry ingredients for the dough. Pour in boiling water, and stir with wooden chopsticks. Add shortening and colour at the end.

Sprinkle wheat starch over a kneading surface and use a rolling pin to roll the wheat starch wrappers at least 3 ½ ” wide. Scoop a spoon of cod fish mixture onto a wrapper. Fold over the filling into triangle shapes.

Place on a bamboo dim sum basket, steam for 8- 10 minutes until cooked. Garnish with fish roe and coriander leaf.

To garnish: • Black fish roe

Method

Mix all the ingredients for