The Gordon Ramsay Experience

LOCATED IN ATLANTIS, THE PALM, BREAD STREET KITCHEN BY GORDON RAMSAY OFFERS UP SURPRISINGLY DIVERSE DISHES IN A LAIDBACK SETTING

Thinkcelebrity chef Gordon Ramsay and there’s no doubt you’ll conjure up images of a swanky setting, with posh dining booths and showy tablecloths. And you wouldn’t be far from the truth; that’s exactly what Verre — Ramsay’s first overseas restaurant, which opened in Hilton Dubai Creek — was like. Verre was much lauded ( it was even named one of the best restaurants in the Middle East in 2010), so when it closed down in 2011 due to financial reasons, fans of the potty- mouthed chef were rather disappointed. Well, they didn’t have to fret for long — by the end of 2015, Ramsay was back in town for the opening of a branch of his much- more casual Bread Street Kitchen.

Whether he’s learnt from the past or simply catching up with newer trends, everything about Bread Street Kitchen screams casual- chic, with its open- plan dining space ( that can easily seat over 400) to its warehouse- like style. The warm amber glow from numerous lamps, as well as the fire flickering away merrily in the open kitchen, lends the space a certain warmth, but intimate it is not. In fact, go on a weekend or weekday, and you’ll find it teeming with tourists and families alike, making quite the din.

Now, for those curious about the name, Bread Street Kitchen first opened in 2011 in 10 Bread Street, famous in London for its abundance of bakeries. Since then, it’s opened three more branches: in Hong Kong, in Singapore, and, of course, Dubai. “However, the Dubai branch is my favourite,” our waiter confesses, before admitting that he may be a bit biased. “It’s also because each branch has dishes customised for the region its in, and in Dubai you’ll find the most varied menu of all.”

He’s not wrong. Just perusing the short- yet- precise menu we discovered Roasted Scottish Salmon mingling quite well with Butter Chicken and Cashewnut Curry. So diversity can be checked off the list.

For appetisers, I couldn’t resist an order of Ramsay’s famous baked scallops, which came with the unusual, but excellently paired, sweetcorn purée. The texture of the scallops was absolutely perfect — delicate, but not rubbery, with the purée adding a wonderful dimension to the dish. My dining companion went in for the Tamarind Spiced Chicken Wings, and again, the texture was just right — crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside. However, the sauce is a bit of a hit or miss — my companion devoured it instantly, while I found the flavour too tart for more than a nibble or two at a time. Their Flat Bread with Caramelised Onions, Taleggio Cheese, Pine Nuts and Basil Pesto in interesting enough if you like sweeter flavours in your food. If not, I’d give this one a pass.

Now, if there’s one dish fans of the celebrity chef have probably heard about, it’s his signature Beef Wellington, a chunk of beef fillet with mushrooms, wrapped in pastry. However at Dh 545 ( albeit this is for two and includes truffle mash and other sides), this is not something everyone can opt for, especially if they want to try other dishes. If you are dead set on it, like we were, opt for their Wellington Wednesdays offer where you can sample it for Dh300 ( per pax). You can get the meat prepared any way you like it; we opted for medium rare and found the meat juicy and tender, complemented by the crispy crust. We warn you, it’s heavier than it looks and a sliver can fill you right up. Order with caution!

On recommendation, we also ordered the BSK Wagyu Beef Burger, and while it was excellently paired with Chimichurri mayo and Monterey Jack Cheese, the meat felt tough, even though we had asked for it to be medium rare. Perhaps just an oversight?

We know it’s hard, especially after a hearty British meal, but save space for dessert, because Bread Street Kitchen outdoes itself in the department. My order of their Rose & Raspberry Eton Mess was divine — berries mixed with sweet cream and delicate meringue that melts in your mouth. Their Cambridge Burnt Cream, their version of a Crème Brulee, had the texture of plain cream, with a delicate layer of crunchy burnt sugar, and raspberry sorbet.

Bread Street is a quintessentially British eatery, although it does add its own twists when it comes to flavours and dishes. Withthecasualambiencethough, it’s easy to forget about the mark- up. So if you’re looking for a laidback dinner out with the family, be sure to keep your eye on the price points. Or, in classic Ramsay style, you might find things getting very heated, very fast.

janice@ khaleejtimes. com