W A meaty Affair

Did you know that Greek and Turkish food have a lot in common? No surprise since the two countries are located side by side. Other than dessert ( baklava, anyone?) and dishes like Tzaziki ( called cacik in Turkey), meaty kababs are a favourite in both pla

alking into Elia i s much l i ke stepping into a garden. Sure, the interiors of the restaurant are exquisitely pretty, with quaint brick walls and gentle shades of white and blue ( Santorini’s colours, if you’re wondering why). But it’s their smoking area which pretty much steals the show — floorto- ceiling glass walls on three sides surrounded by plants and vines give you the impression you’re right in the middle of a forest. Quite a feat when you consider that the restaurant is located on the third floor area of Majestic Hotel Tower in busy Mankhool. We had decided to come during the day to check out their new ‘ Simply Greek’ brunch and were rewarded with plenty of natural sunlight streaming in too. Now this is how you start a weekend.

As we took in the gentle Greek music and our very green surroundings, the helpful staff explained their new brunch concept. For Dh259 per pax, one gets a four- course meal ( starter, salad, main and dessert) from their sharing menu and unlimited beverages. Perfect for larger groups who want to taste a bit of everything — and you can also choose anything from the à la carte menu should you crave something not on the sharing one. It was time to sit back and enjoy a big Greek brunch without breaking the bank.

We got started with a plate of Beef Meatballs, and it was an instant hit — tender meat over a bed of red kidney beans, complemented by a cool side of Tzaziki ( a Greek yoghurt dip). My dining companion decided to diverge from the fixed menu and ordered a serving of grilled octopus instead, having never tried it before. The tentacle was lightly marinated, crispy on the outside, tender on the inside. It would have been just another starter had it not been accompanied by Fava ( a puréed dip, much like hummus but made with green peas instead), which elevated the flavour to a whole new level.

With this being a Greek restaurant, you just know you’re going to find something special in the salads section. After being told it was a bean salad, I expected my Fasolakia to be the usual mélange of kidney and lima beans but was pleasantly surprised when we were presented with a refreshing plate of green beans instead, dipped into a cool, creamy tomato sauce for a hint of tang. Topped with meltin- your- mouth feta, this was undoubtedly one of the highlights of my meal.

We then took a chance and ordered the Sundried Mackerel from their innovative salad menu — but this one is for true seafood lovers only. After all, dried mackerel does have an extremely pungent taste, something even the strong citrus dressing and spinach couldn’t hide. It’s not bad by a long shot, but does take some getting used to. So, you might want to give this one a miss if you’re not a true fish lover.

Mains included a side of short ribs and the meat was so tender it was falling off the bone while the buckwheat pasta it was served with soaked up the rich semi- sweet sauce like a sponge — proof that Elia does more than just Greek food really well. My order of Seafood Giovesti was a concoction of shrimp, calamari, mussel and orzo pasta ( which was shaped like rice) and simply bursting with flavour. Another dish I wouldn’t mind having many times over.

Finally, two desserts — a Chocolate Lava Cake and Chocolate Erupted Orange Pie — were scarfed down with much enthusiasm. The Chocolate Lava was pretty standard, but anyone who enjoys the delightful combination of chocolate and orange will love the latter. After all, what’s not to enjoy a b o u t a s p o n g y o r a n g e c a k e surrounded by a puddle of melted dark chocolate?

In case you hadn’t noticed, Greek cuisine has been rising in popularity lately. A number of restaurants have opened over the last few years, each promising a more authentic experience than the l ast, and many of them delivering. But throughout it all, Elia, which opened almost nine years ago, seems to have set the standard — and a pretty high one at that.

After a thoroughly satisfying meal and a great start to the weekend, I couldn’t help but ask the waitress what Elia meant. “Olive,” she said, and it seems fitting. Olives are an integral part of Greek food, and their branches are a universal symbol of peace. Which is exactly what you feel when you’re dining at Elia.

janice@ khaleejtimes. com