Master costume design with Image engine
Sean Frandsen’s CG clothing for Fantastic Beasts
Marvelous Designer has become a valuable tool for creating realistic-looking and moving garments in the digital world. Approaching clothing from the standpoint of a real-life tailor or fashion designer results in clothes that look and feel natural. image engine decided to go down this route when it was time to put together shots of digital characters and clothing that needed to blend seamlessly with ‘real’ shots, many of them close-ups, in the seven-minute intro for Fantastic Beasts:
The Crimes Of Grindelwald. This is an overview of the costume build for a carriage driver.
One of the first things VFX supervisor Martyn culpitt did was request the physical patterns used by the costume design team to make the costumes worn by the actors. We photographed the patterns and recorded their real-world measurements. We also had a number of photos of the clothing from all angles and a 3D digital scan of the actor in costume to measure against. This was really helpful in determining how folds should form later.
Use physical patterns The first thing we did was to paste up the pattern pieces on a wall and then photograph them so we could import them into Marvelous. A character modeller took the scan of the carriage driver and created the clean, unclothed version we would use for animation and final renders, as well as the avatar for clothing. Because this model perfectly matches the actor, the clothes would fit the digital character in the same way as they do the real one. Obviously, it’s not always possible to get the physical patterns. in these cases, try getting a pattern-making book or looking up patterns online.
Draw patterns Photos of the patterns can be imported right into Marvelous Designer. The measurements are displayed in centimetres, so you can make sure they match the actual patterns. One very cool feature is that as you draw your pattern panels, you’re also laying out your uvs at the same time. There is also a uv editor where you can have the uvs laid out differently to how the patterns are on the 2D ‘table’.
Fit and sew With the patterns all drawn out, they can now be sewn together in much the same way real patterns would be. There are handy fit-points where