SWITCHES AND ELECTRICS

Common problems with 944 electrics are bad earths, corroded terminals, faulty switches, and/or bodged repairs. Alarms and immobilisers are frequently troublesome. Oh, and the battery light, an integral part of the alternator charging circuit, must have the correct bulb, not an LED.

Check if the rheostat (variable resistor used to control current) on the dashboard light switch works. If it doesn’t, the switch will stop working soon. And check the headlamp motor’s internal switching (controlling open/ closed positions), which can fail. If a headlamp won’t raise when the switch is in the dip or main position, and if it won't lower when turned off, check the relay mounted on the motor itself. Thankfully, second-hand motors and headlamp assemblies are cheap and plentiful in supply.

The Bosch airflow meter can cause trouble. Luckily, it can be reconditioned. ECUS are less problematic, although dry joints are not unheard of. ECUS can also be reconditioned. On the topic, the DME relay (actually two relays — one powers up the ECU, the other relates to the fuel pump) is a known weakness. Solid state replacements are now available to buy – we recommend you carry a spare.

Check electric window operation. The channels can be warped or dirty, possibly causing light scratching on the glass. Test the electric sunroof, electric seats, mirrors, aerial (later cars have the aerial integrated with the windscreen), heated rear window, rear wiper, headlamp washers (although the washers are often disconnected) and tailgate release switch. Check the fuel gauge is working, too — sticky senders are a common complaint.