Strolling through El Raval
Leave La Rambla through Carrer Nou de la Rambla, continuing up to Carrer de Sant Oleguer. Head down to the Rambla del Raval and continue through Carrer de l’Hospital. Enter upper Raval through the garden of the old Hospital de la Santa Creu and head to Carrer del Dr. Dou. Turn right onto Carrer d’Elisabets until you reach Plaça del Bonsuccés. Turn left to Plaça de Vincenç Martorell and continue straight. Turn left at the end and follow Carrer dels Tallers. Follow this one until the Plaça Universitat.
THE GUËLL RESIDENCE
Palau Güell is one of the few modernist buildings by Antoni Gaudí in the old town. It was finished in 1889 as the private residence of the architect’s biggest benefactor, Eusebi Güell. Although the building looks rather insignificant from the street, its interior is breathtaking. With plenty of lush materials in dark, elegant colours, the interior perfectly reflects the fortune of the Guëll family. Yet, the biggest surprise of all awaits you on top of the roof, where 20 colourful, unique chimneys encircle the central 15-metre-high spire.
Carrer Nou de la Rambla 3-5. €12 (discounts available). Free admission on 23 April, 10 June, 11 and 24 September, 15 December and every first Sunday of the month. Open daily from 10am to 5.30pm (and to 8pm from April to October).
1,100 YEARS OLD
Dating back to the late tenth century, the Romanesque church of Sant Pau del Camp is the oldest in Barcelona. Back then, it was located outside of the city, which explains the ‘del Camp’ (meaning ‘from the field’) part of its name. Due to the expansion of Barcelona in the 14th century, however, the church is now part of the city centre. Besides the church with its simple yet beautiful decorations, you can also visit the adjoining monastery and its tranquil garden and galleries.
Carrer de Sant Pau 101. €5. Monday to Saturday, 10am to 1.30pm and 4pm to 7.30pm (until 7pm on Saturdays).
FULL-ON CONTEMPORARY
The Museum for Contemporary Art of Barcelona (MACBA) and the Centre for Contemporary Culture of Barcelona (CCCB) are the city’s most important contemporary museums and are situated mere metres away from each other. MACBA is by far the biggest and has a permanent collection with pretty much all the big names Catalonia, Spain and the world have seen since 1950. On the wall outside the museum is an original mural by Keith Harring. At CCCB, you won’t find a permanent collection, but their temporary exhibitions are always worth a visit. The centre’s focus is on the city and urban culture, and it displays work from all around the world.
MACBA, Plaça dels Àngels 1. €11 (discounts available). Free admission every Saturday from 4pm to 8pm. Open on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from 11am to 7.30pm, on Saturdays from 10am to 8pm, and on Sundays from 10am to 3pm.
CCCB, Carrer de Montalegre 5. €6 (discounts available). Free entrance every Sunday from 3pm to 8pm and during the feast of La Mercè. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11am to 8pm.
THE OTHER RAMBLA
Just 450 metres from La Rambla lies the Rambla del Raval, one of Barcelona’s other three ramblas (for more information, scroll back to page 40). Unlike the legendary eponymous street, the one in Raval is less polished and significantly less busy. The restaurants you find here are more authentic and offer more fair prices. You’ll also, however, notice the remains of El Raval’s rougher times: there are still plenty of homeless people on the streets, and some of the bars can appear a little seedy. Nevertheless, the neighbourhood is totally safe during the day and fairly safe at night. At the centre of the Rambla del Raval stands El Gato de Botero, a whimsical statue of a humongous cat by Fernando Botero (the artist who also created the funny horse statue in the arrivals hall of Terminal 2 at the El Prat Airport).