COUN­TRY KITCHEN

Jane Price re­dis­cov­ers an old­fash­ioned flavour­ing for pi­geon

Air Gunner - - Contents -

The word ‘ liquorice’ con­jures mem­o­ries from the ‘ 70s, of com­ing back from the shops with a sher­bet foun­tain, with the sticky black liquorice stick in the mid­dle, or the brightly coloured bags of all­sorts, but that all changed when Nigella sat on the stairs in her London home and showed us her trea­sure ch­est full of dif­fer­ent types of liquorice, from syrups and gums to powders, that could be use in ‘all sorts’ (!) of recipes, and she was clearly pas­sion­ate about this herb that we have only re­ally ever thought of as con­fec­tionery flavour­ing.

After that inspiration from Nigella,

I looked in my lo­cal su­per­mar­ket for any form of liquorice for cook­ing, with no luck, and the health food shop only stocked liquorice gums. The an­swer, as al­ways, was to buy on­line, and the dried liquorice root pow­der ar­rived in a cou­ple of days. There are very few meat recipes us­ing liquorice and none that I could find for pi­geon, and I think this is a big shame be­cause the flavour re­ally suits game, and es­pe­cially pi­geon. I re­ally love the way this rich sauce com­ple­ments the meat here. You need to make sure there is some sweet­ness added to the sauce be­cause this brings out the liquorice flavour, and I have used red­cur­rant jelly in this recipe for that pur­pose. I have used the liquorice root pow­der in the mari­nade to flavour the meat, and also to the sauce, and this worked re­ally well. In fact, this is one of my favourite recipes for the mag­a­zine so far, and makes me won­der how many old flavours are out there that can be used in a new way. Watch this space!

Left: This one was de­li­cious: Phill and I loved it Below: Flavour is what this recipe is all about

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