Part Two of Neil’s re­fur­bish­ment of a clas­sic ri­fle, with a new set of seals

Air Gunner - - Contents -

13The air cylin­der end cap can usu­ally be re­moved with a bit of an old leather belt wrapped around it, and then grips used to un­screw it. This one was stub­bornly tight and so I had to fab­ri­cate a tool to re­move it. This con­sisted of a bit of flat plate with a 20mm di­am­e­ter hole in it, and then two 3mm di­am­e­ter holes drilled di­ag­o­nally op­po­site on a 25mm pitch cir­cle di­am­e­ter and then two 3mm di­am­e­ter pins through to lo­cate in the two holes in the end cap.

14The other end of the cylin­der re­moved so that the large ‘O’ rings can be re­placed.

15We are now ready to place out the new seals and scrupu­lously clean ev­ery­thing ready for re­assem­bly.

Start by re­plac­ing the large ‘O’ ring on the filler valve as­sem­bly and screw back into the end of the air cylin­der.

Put a minute spot of lu­bri­cant on the seal and screw the caps into the air cylin­der. There is no need to over-tighten these, just a nip will do.

161718Re­place the small ‘O’ ring on the fill­ing valve.

Now re­place the three ‘O’ rings on the ‘ T’ bar fill­ing adap­tor.

Insert the fill­ing valve and spring into the adap­tor and then screw this as­sem­bly into the air cylin­der end cap.

19Re­place the two seals on the manome­ter screw, the thicker ‘O’ ring un­der the head of the fix­ing screw, and the thin­ner one be­tween the manome­ter and the ac­tion. Screw the manome­ter onto the ac­tion.

20Assem­ble the ham­mer, spring and spring end cap into the trig­ger hous­ing body as­sem­bly and slide it over the ham­mer guide. Make sure it is lined up cor­rectly with the rest of the ac­tion and fix in po­si­tion with the cap head screw.

21Re­place the trans­fer port ‘O’ ring and mate the bar­rel/ breech as­sem­bly to the rest of the ac­tion, be­ing very care­ful

that the new ‘O’ ring is in the cor­rect po­si­tion in the an­nu­lar lo­ca­tion rings.

22Screw the two as­sem­blies to­gether with the six cap head screws mak­ing sure that the bolt is cor­rectly lo­cated in re­la­tion to the ham­mer and func­tions as it should.

23On the 410 vari­ant, re­place the magazine in­dex­ing sys­tem with the three cap head screws and then make sure that the small op­er­at­ing lever is cor­rectly po­si­tioned and is func­tion­ing cor­rectly.

24Re-fit the ‘8’ clamp and nip up the three re­tain­ing grub-screws. Make sure that the bar­rel is in its “nat­u­ral” po­si­tion and not twisted.

2526Fit the trig­ger guard back with the two cap head screws.

Now fit the com­pleted ac­tion into the stock with its sin­gle cap head screw.

27Tofill this ri­fle from empty, the ac­tion has to be cocked. I only filled to 100-bar pres­sure just in case I had to empty the cylin­der again if it lost pres­sure overnight.

28There was no pres­sure loss overnight, so the cylin­der was topped up to 160 bar and the ri­fle put over the chrono­graph. A string of 10 shots gave the high read­ing of 11.6 f.p.e. with a max­i­mum muz­zle ve­loc­ity vari­a­tion of 9 ft/ sec­ond. This is well within the U.K. limit of 12 f.p.e. so now all of the an­cil­lar­ies can be re­placed and the tools can be cleaned and put away.

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