64 In part two, Neil concludes his complete overhaul of a target rifle
Neil Price gives some TLC to a lovely old target rifle PART 2
13 Here is the piston and leather washer being soaked for 48 hours in neatsfoot oil.
14 This new breech seal looks a bit better than the old one did.
15 A smear of moly grease on the piston-bearing surfaces, and the piston assembly can be slid into the compression cylinder after making sure that the cylinder is scrupulously clean. Line up the slots in the piston and the compression cylinder.
16 Replace the pillar nut and cocking arm slipper spring. Note that there is a ‘scallop’ on one side of the pillar nut.
17 This has to face toward the front of the rifle so that it does not encroach on the cocking lever clearance slot.
18 Put some moly grease on the end of the cocking arm, slide it through the support bracket and locate the end of the cocking arm through the cocking slot in the compression cylinder and into the piston. Enter the breech into the jaws of the action.
19 Put a smear of moly grease on one of the barrel shims and slide it into the left-hand side between the breech block and the action jaws. Line up the holes and enter the pivot pin about halfway through the action.
20 Turn the action over and insert the other thrust washer in the right- hand side of the action. Line up the hole in the barrel shim with the hole in the action. Screw the pivot pin all the way through from the left-hand side of the action. Tighten this pivot screw until you can feel a slight increase in the force required to move the breech/ barrel assembly in the jaws. Doing this ensures that all the clearance between the breech and the jaws is taken up and there will be no movement between the two.
21 On the right-hand side of the action, fit the locking washer and lock nut and tighten.
22 The spring and guide is given a light smear of moly grease and placed inside the compression cylinder. There is very little pre-load on these springs, so the trigger block can be safely screwed into the end of the compression cylinder by hand.
23 Tighten the trigger block into the end of the compression cylinder until the trigger slot is exactly lined up.
24 Cock the trigger mechanism by pressing down on the top sear.
25 The trigger mechanism will lock down in the cocked position ready for installation on the trigger block.
26 Fit both of the trigger mechanism retaining pins; the longer one goes at the front and the shorter one at the rear.
Don’t forget to pull the trigger to release the sears or you won’t be able to cock the rifle.
Now to fit the stock to the action, refit the dioptre sight and try it over the chronograph.
A nine fps spread over ten shots is not bad for a rifle of this age. At around 5.2 ft.lbs. muzzle energy this is no powerhouse of an air rifle, but it is certainly a lot better than it was. It is very smooth to cock and the firing cycle is quite refined. I am afraid that this rifle will never be as good as when it was new because of the way it has been mistreated in the past, and the non- availability of the crucial parts that were really required, but still, it is now a better shooter than it was and should be more than sufficient for bell target shooting.
13 14 15 18 17 16
19 20 21 23 22 26 25 24