64 In part two, Neil con­cludes his com­plete over­haul of a tar­get ri­fle

Neil Price gives some TLC to a lovely old tar­get ri­fle PART 2

Air Gunner - - Contents -

13 Here is the pis­ton and leather washer be­ing soaked for 48 hours in neats­foot oil.

14 This new breech seal looks a bit bet­ter than the old one did.

15 A smear of moly grease on the pis­ton-bear­ing sur­faces, and the pis­ton assem­bly can be slid into the com­pres­sion cylin­der af­ter mak­ing sure that the cylin­der is scrupu­lously clean. Line up the slots in the pis­ton and the com­pres­sion cylin­der.

16 Re­place the pil­lar nut and cock­ing arm slip­per spring. Note that there is a ‘scal­lop’ on one side of the pil­lar nut.

17 This has to face to­ward the front of the ri­fle so that it does not en­croach on the cock­ing lever clear­ance slot.

18 Put some moly grease on the end of the cock­ing arm, slide it through the sup­port bracket and lo­cate the end of the cock­ing arm through the cock­ing slot in the com­pres­sion cylin­der and into the pis­ton. En­ter the breech into the jaws of the ac­tion.

19 Put a smear of moly grease on one of the bar­rel shims and slide it into the left-hand side be­tween the breech block and the ac­tion jaws. Line up the holes and en­ter the pivot pin about half­way through the ac­tion.

20 Turn the ac­tion over and in­sert the other thrust washer in the right- hand side of the ac­tion. Line up the hole in the bar­rel shim with the hole in the ac­tion. Screw the pivot pin all the way through from the left-hand side of the ac­tion. Tighten this pivot screw un­til you can feel a slight in­crease in the force re­quired to move the breech/ bar­rel assem­bly in the jaws. Do­ing this en­sures that all the clear­ance be­tween the breech and the jaws is taken up and there will be no move­ment be­tween the two.

21 On the right-hand side of the ac­tion, fit the lock­ing washer and lock nut and tighten.

22 The spring and guide is given a light smear of moly grease and placed in­side the com­pres­sion cylin­der. There is very lit­tle pre-load on these springs, so the trig­ger block can be safely screwed into the end of the com­pres­sion cylin­der by hand.

23 Tighten the trig­ger block into the end of the com­pres­sion cylin­der un­til the trig­ger slot is ex­actly lined up.

24 Cock the trig­ger mech­a­nism by press­ing down on the top sear.

25 The trig­ger mech­a­nism will lock down in the cocked po­si­tion ready for in­stal­la­tion on the trig­ger block.

26 Fit both of the trig­ger mech­a­nism re­tain­ing pins; the longer one goes at the front and the shorter one at the rear.

Don’t for­get to pull the trig­ger to re­lease the sears or you won’t be able to cock the ri­fle.

Now to fit the stock to the ac­tion, re­fit the diop­tre sight and try it over the chrono­graph.

A nine fps spread over ten shots is not bad for a ri­fle of this age. At around 5.2 ft.lbs. muz­zle en­ergy this is no pow­er­house of an air ri­fle, but it is cer­tainly a lot bet­ter than it was. It is very smooth to cock and the fir­ing cy­cle is quite re­fined. I am afraid that this ri­fle will never be as good as when it was new be­cause of the way it has been mis­treated in the past, and the non- avail­abil­ity of the cru­cial parts that were re­ally re­quired, but still, it is now a bet­ter shooter than it was and should be more than suf­fi­cient for bell tar­get shoot­ing.

13 14 15 18 17 16

19 20 21 23 22 26 25 24

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.