Neil Price takes on a com­plex top qual­ity tar­get ri­fle

Air Gunner - - Contents -

Part two of Neil’s re­fur­bish­ment of a Fein­werk­bau Model 300S

29 I care­fully re­moved the pis­ton ring from the groove, tak­ing care not to break it. I have never known one of these to have to be re­placed be­cause of wear. I care­fully cleaned up the out­side and two edges of the pis­ton ring us­ing 1000 grit wet and dry pa­per. I scraped the de­posits out of the pis­ton ring groove with a small screw­driver.

30 Ev­ery­thing is nicely cleaned up and the pis­ton ring is now free within its groove.

31 Ev­ery­thing is here that is re­quired to over­haul this ri­fle, a pair of springs with op­pos­ing he­lix an­gles, a join­ing bush, a pis­ton buf­fer and a breech seal. The pis­ton buf­fers do age harden and break up and do ir­repara­ble dam­age to the end of the com­pres­sion cylin­der.

The kit was ob­tained from: City Air Weapons And Firearms 247 Lyndon Road Ol­ton Soli­hull West Mid­lands B92 7QP United King­dom 012174213239

32 The new springs were slightly longer than the orig­i­nals, but well worth re­plac­ing whilst the gun is stripped down.

33 The breech seal at the end of the com­pres­sion cylin­der looks like it has seen bet­ter days.

34 The old breech seal is picked out with a small screw­driver and the new seal pressed in by hand.

35 I put a slight smear of lube on the in­ner rim of the new buf­fer to aid assem­bly. I then placed the pis­ton up­right on a firm sur­face and tapped the latch rod smartly with a soft faced mal­let to seat the new buf­fer into the re­cess in the end of the pis­ton.

36 I put just a smear of Fein­werk­bau spe­cial assem­bly grease all around the pis­ton ring and at the back of the pis­ton and slid the pis­ton into the com­pres­sion cylin­der. The pis­ton ring has to be pinched shut with your fin­gers to fa­cil­i­tate en­try into the cylin­der. Make sure that the cock­ing slot in the pis­ton is lined up with the slot in the com­pres­sion cylin­der.

37 Insert the com­pres­sion cylin­der and pis­ton assem­bly into the ac­tion, lin­ing the breech seal up with breech cone.

38 Check that all of the cock­ing slots are still in line.

39 The light­est smear of the assem­bly grease on the ends and out­side of the new springs, and then they can be fit­ted in­side the pis­ton.

40 Make sure that the pis­ton lock­ing plate and the filler piece are cor­rectly lo­cated in the slot in the end of the trig­ger block.

41 Insert the trig­ger block into the end of the ac­tion.

42 Hold the ac­tion up­right and ex­ert down­ward pres­sure to com­press the springs and fully en­gage the trig­ger block into the ac­tion. Start the shoul­der screw, com­plete with wash­ers and sad­dle by hand. Care­ful with this be­cause it is easy to crossthread. Fully tighten the shoul­der screw.

43 Re­place the safety spring plun­der into the for­ward hole. With my sausage- like fin­gers, I find a pair of nee­dle- nosed pli­ers does the trick.

44 Insert the safety spring. Again, I find that nee­dle- nosed pli­ers are a great help.

45 Make sure that the spring is prop­erly lo­cated in the re­cess in the trig­ger block and that the hole in the spring is lo­cated over the spigot on the safety plunger.

46 Insert the spring clamp pin through the hole in the end of the spring and the rear hole in the ac­tion.

47 Re­fit the ‘C’ clip. I find squeez­ing them on with nee­dle- nosed pli­ers is the eas­i­est method.

48 More of the assem­bly grease on the hook of the cock­ing arm, and the hook is lo­cated in the slot in the com­pres­sion cham­ber.

49 The cock­ing lever assem­bly is re­placed with some assem­bly grease on the ful­crum pin and the pin tight­ened.

50 That’s bet­ter. I can feel the breech seal com­press­ing from when the cock­ing lever is in this po­si­tion.

51 Of­fer up the trig­ger assem­bly so that the two screw holes are in line, and then with a small screw­driver align the cock­ing ratchet drive tang with the slot in the com­pres­sion cylin­der.

52 With the tang aligned, insert and tighten the two slot- head re­tain­ing screws.

53 Clean up the an­gle bracket and as­sem­ble into the end of the guide bar hous­ing, lo­cat­ing the two lugs on the bracket into the cor­re­spond­ing holes in the guide bar.

54 Slide the guide bar over the trig­ger assem­bly and lo­cate the rear axle pin in its bore. Make sure that the two dim­ples on the rear axle bracket are cor­rectly lo­cated in the two holes in the guide bar.

55 Insert the axle pins through the holes in the frame and the guide bar hous­ing.

56 Se­cure the axle pins with the ‘C’ clips.

57 Reattach the guide bar spring.

58 Insert the guide bar securing pin. Se­cure the guide bar cross pin with the ‘C’ clip.

The only things left to do now are to at­tach the ac­tion to the stock with the two cross head screws, and re­fit the diop­tre sight.


- Neil will be tak­ing a look a the Fein­werk­brau P70 ri­fle.

PART 2 30 31 29 33 3234 35 3637

40 38 39 42 43 41 46 45 44

53 56 50 51 54 48 575558 49 52 47

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