Home Ser­vice

In part two, Pete Evans looks at what’s in­volved in a rou­tine ser­vice of a TX200

Airgun World - - Contents -

Pete Evans ex­plains how to ser­vice your TX in your own home, with a ‘mas­ter kit in a tube’ from Air Arms

Last time, I took a look at the im­pres­sive TX fam­ily of ri­fles, con­clud­ing that there re­ally was lit­tle to im­prove upon be­cause most of the work that ap­plies to other ri­fles has al­ready been ad­dressed at fac­tory level. How­ever, even a through­bred ri­fle needs a ser­vice from time to time to en­sure that it re­mains at peak per­for­mance, and your TX will be no ex­cep­tion. Thank­fully, al­though ad­vanced in de­sign, the TX is one of the eas­i­est ri­fles to strip, and an ideal start in the big world of air­gun main­te­nance.


On oc­ca­sions, it can be dif­fi­cult to source parts for air ri­fles, par­tic­u­larly those out of pro­duc­tion, and even if you can get them they seem to be in­sanely ex­pen­sive. These is­sues will be of no con­cern for the TX owner, though be­cause it is a cur­rent model so all nec­es­sary parts are avail­able from sev­eral on-line sources. Al­though Air Arms do not usu­ally sell di­rectly to the pub­lic, they have made pro­vi­sion for their cus­tomers in the form of their mas­ter ser­vice kit, part num­ber MSK3.

Whilst at the last Mid­land Game Fair, I spoke to the Air Arms cus­tomer and tech­ni­cal ser­vice agents, Sheila Cooper and Chris Kemp, and a more help­ful duo I have yet to meet. They in­tro­duced me to the TX kit and it con­tains ev­ery­thing you need for the job, neatly con­tained in a tube.

I have never seen a kit as com­pre­hen­sive as this, sup­plied by a man­u­fac­turer. Along with the com­po­nents is a de­tailed in­struc­tion leaflet to ex­plain the process step by step. There are only two things you need to know be­fore pur­chas­ing the kit –the cal­i­bre and mark.

The TX has passed through three marks, and it’s im­por­tant to dis­tin­guish be­tween a Mk1/2 and a Mk3. The eas­i­est way to do this is to ex­am­ine the com­pres­sion cham­ber from the right side of the gun. The Mk1 has no grooves vis­i­ble be­cause there is no anti-bear trap de­vice; the Mk2 has three, equally spaced groves and the Mk3 has three grooves, but they are un­evenly spaced.


No spe­cial tools are needed for the job – just a 10mm open-end span­ner, par­al­lel punches, and some hex keys.

Start off by get­ting the ac­tion out of the stock. You will find two hex-head, coun­ter­sunk screws in the fore end and two hex-head bolts in the trig­ger guard. I do think that hex-heads are an el­e­gant solution, I’m sure purists will dis­agree, but that’s my take on it.

When the ac­tion is parted from the stock, take a minute to com­pre­hend the su­perb fin­ish of the metal work, and the fit of the com­po­nents. When you’ve taken your fill, loosen the 10mm stock fix­ing stud – make sure you si­mul­ta­ne­ously ap­ply hand pres­sure to the back block. If the TX has a fac­tory spring, there will be no need for a spring compressor be­cause the spring has very lit­tle pre-load. If in doubt, get it in the sash cramp.

Once the lug is re­moved, the back block and trig­ger mech­a­nism can be re­moved as one unit.

If the trig­ger unit is to be re­moved, drift out the two pins, tak­ing care not to lose the safety catch and spring. If you look closely, you will no­tice these re­tain­ing pins have a rounded con­vex pro­file at each end. This car­ries through to the pins hold­ing the trig­ger com­po­nents. It doesn’t sound very ex­cit­ing, but to me, it’s just an­other at­ten­tion to de­tail by the Air Arms crew.


With the back block off, the spring and guide can be slid out. The un­der­lever link will need to be re­moved be­fore the pis­ton and com­pres­sion cham­ber will come out. The un­der­lever link is held in place by a pin which has an ‘E’ clip on each end – only one clip needs to be re­moved. This will lever out with a small screw­driver, but be care­ful be­cause it is all too easy to lose. With the pin out, the un­der­lever link will hinge up and can be de­tached from the cock­ing shoe, which acts on the com­pres­sion cham­ber. Slide the cock­ing shoe to­ward the open end of the cock­ing slot and guide it out – be mind­ful to which way round it sits in the cock­ing slot. At this point, I would re­move the un­der­lever by drift­ing out its pivot pin.

The com­pres­sion tube will slide back along with the pis­ton, press the bear-tap but­ton and

it will pass with­out hin­der­ance, out through the back of the ac­tion.

I men­tioned in part one of this ar­ti­cle that the TX didn’t seem to have any in­her­ent weak­nesses, well there is one, which I have ob­served on a few oc­ca­sions.

On the un­der­side of the bar­rel you should be able to see a rub­ber buf­fer which cush­ions the clo­sure of the un­der­lever. I said ‘should’ be­cause what you might see is a hole, or some­times a hole plugged with rub­ber where it should be. It’s worth re­plac­ing this and whilst the un­der­lever is off is a good time to do it.

The buf­fer is not in the ser­vice kit, but costs a few pence – it is part No TX227. As sup­plied, the buf­fer is too long, so clip it with a cou­ple of mm of the thin­ner di­am­e­ter tail pro­trud­ing over the top of the thicker part.

Grip the end be­tween thumb and in­dex fin­ger and screw the rub­ber shank into the hole. If you try to press it in, you could be in for a strug­gle. Thanks must go to Chris Kemp for shar­ing the fac­tory fit­ting method.


With the com­pres­sion tube and pis­ton in hand you will have all the com­po­nents that will need seals and bear­ings changed – it’s al­ways good prac­tice to clean ev­ery­thing be­fore start­ing.

The pis­ton seal can be lev­ered off with a screw­driver, push­ing the new one back into place. Hot wa­ter can make things a bit more pli­able, if re­quired.

Ring bear­ings will be found on the pis­ton. Sim­ply find the split, spread a lit­tle and slide off. Re­place in a sim­i­lar man­ner.

Trans­fer port seals live in the front face of the com­pres­sion tube and con­sist of a pair of ‘O’ rings back to back. A pointed tool will soon have them hooked out.

A lit­tle smear of grease on the side of the pis­ton seal, and a lit­tle on the bear­ing ar­eas, and the pis­ton can be slid back into the com­pres­sion tube.

Be­fore push­ing the re­built assem­bly back into the ac­tion, make sure you press on the bear-trap release, else the com­pres­sion tube won’t slide all the way in.

Slide the cock­ing shoe back into po­si­tion, mak­ing sure it’s the cor­rect way round, re-in­sert the cock­ing link. Make sure you grease the un­der­lever pivot point be­fore reat­tach­ing. Once in place re­con­nect the un­der­lever to the cock­ing link with its pin and ‘E’ clip.


Air Drms fit the com­puter-de­signed (CD) trig­ger to their spring guns, which con­trasts with the Rekord trig­ger fit­ted to the Weihrauch range. In re­al­ity, the CD does bor­row from the Rekord in de­sign, al­though it does dif­fer quite con­sid­er­ably in func­tion.

I will go on record here (no pun) and state that in my view, I pre­fer the ad­just­ment set-up

“... sat­is­fac­tion know­ing that your gun is ‘right’. It’s a feel­ing akin to hav­ing a fresh ser­vice and MOT on your car”

on the CD, and also find it eas­ier to strip. In use they are eas­ily equal, both per­form­ing su­perbly, eas­ily the best pair of trig­gers avail­able on a spring gun.

Reg­u­lar read­ers of my scrib­blings will have come to know that I am a fan of the Rowan range of trig­gers, par­tic­u­larly their ex­tra-set-back de­sign for the HW range. As luck would have it, they make a tar­get-style blade for the CD unit, which has ad­just­ment fore and aft, as well as be­ing able to swivel so that it can be off­set – it seemed too good an op­por­tu­nity not to try.

To change the blade, start by drift­ing out the trig­ger re­tain­ing pin, be­fore drop­ping out the trig­ger blade.

Be­fore in­stalling the Rowan unit, I like to en­sure that both ad­just­ing screws are just pro­trud­ing from the in­ter­nal face, then place the new blade into the mech­a­nism and re­fit the re­tain­ing pin.

At this point, the trig­ger is com­pletely use­less be­cause it is out of ad­just­ment. I pre­fer to make most of the ad­just­ments with the trig­ger mech­a­nism off the gun for com­plete safety rea­sons.


Cock the trig­ger by press­ing down the top sear un­til it en­gages. In small in­cre­ments, screw in the first stage ad­juster (screw fur­thest from the blade), un­til the trig­ger fires on the first stage only, it’s wise to keep a hand over the top of the sear to cush­ion its up­ward mo­tion.

At this point, re-cock the trig­ger and slowly ad­vance the other sec­ond-stage ad­juster un­til you feel a dis­tinct first and sec­ond stage, which seems to be to your lik­ing. In prac­tice, it is likely that you will need to re­peat this process sev­eral times be­fore get­ting it right – ba­si­cally, its a bal­ance be­tween the two ad­just­ment screws. When the trig­ger is fully re­fit­ted, you might have to tweak the ad­just­ment a lit­tle, but at least you will be in the right ball park. The trig­ger it­self comes with com­pre­hen­sive in­struc­tions, but if in any doubt, ask your lo­cal gun­smith to take a look.

The ad­justed trig­ger can now be fit­ted into the back block. Tak­ing care to re­fit the safety but­ton and spring, drift back the two trig­ger re­tain­ing pins.


The pis­ton weight, to­gether with a very lightly greased spring, can now be of­fered to the pis­ton, fol­lowed by the spring guide. It will be noted that two wash­ers are pro­vided with the spring guide in or­der to give the spring a lit­tle more pre-load and hence power. At this point, I opted to use one and see how things went be­cause it’s an easy task to add the other one if re­quired. Be aware that power will in­crease as the ri­fle beds in.

Make sure the spring guide en­gages cor­rectly with the back block (there is a re­cess there), and push down, whilst screw­ing the stock lug back into po­si­tion.

All that re­mains is to re­place the stock. Air Arms rec­om­mends tight­en­ing the rear trig­ger guard screw first.


Give your­self a few shots to let things set­tle in be­fore run­ning the gun over a chrono­graph – the only ac­cu­rate way to check per­for­mance.

In this case, I had a power hov­er­ing around 11 ft.lbs. with Air Arms Field, which to my mind is just about right.

There is def­i­nitely a sat­is­fac­tion know­ing that your gun is ‘right’. It’s a feel­ing akin to hav­ing a fresh ser­vice and MOT on your car. It is likely to in­stil con­fi­dence in the owner, which will pay div­i­dends in the field or on the range. Do not un­der­es­ti­mate the role that psy­chol­ogy plays in our shoot­ing.

So, if you are a bud­ding en­thu­si­ast want­ing to ser­vice a gun for the first time, the TX is a pretty good place to start. That’s all we have space for this month, but I have more de­light­ful air­guns cry­ing out for at­ten­tion – wait, I hear one now! I think it’s say­ing Su­per­Star! I

Hap­pi­ness is a home-ser­viced TX.

All the ser­vice parts you need in a tube!

Sheila Cooper and Chris Kemp dis­play­ing the TX mas­ter ser­vice kit.

Slide the cock­ing shoe to the widest point and lift out – check its po­si­tion in the track.

Two fore end screws and two from the trig­ger guard – the beauty of this ri­fle ex­tends beyond its skin.

Lever off one of the clips, make a men­tal note where it lands, with­draw pin re­leas­ing the link.

This 10mm bolt re­leases the back block; spring pre-load should be min­i­mal on a stan­dard gun.

Com­pres­sion tube and pis­ton coaxed out. Tap the pis­ton up­side down on the bench to get the pis­ton weight out – it might be stuck with grease.

Lever off the pis­ton washer with a screw­driver. Del­rin bear­ings are split and eas­ily spread and slipped off.

There will be two ‘O’ rings in here – a pointed tool helps them out.

Slowly screw in the first-stage ad­juster un­til trig­ger re­leases, then slowly ad­vance the re­main­ing screw to bal­ance and in­tro­duce sec­ond stage.

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