Time traveller’s handbook

Take a wander through the streets of the Republic of China

The Republic of China is experiencing seismic changes. In the aftermath of the Xinhai Revolution, the Qing dynasty has been swept aside after nearly three centuries on the imperial throne. In its place is a new administration headed by men more used to controlling military divisions than ruling a country, so is struggling with the concept of democracy. While the so-called Nanjing Decade – 1927 to 1937 – offered a glimmer hope in the form of an economic boom and creative freedom, life in the fledgling Republic of China isn’t easy for anyone, even those at the top. Assassination, unrest and opposition are the watchwords of those who hope to govern and for the people, economic and industrial progress is slowed by in-fighting and sabre rattling amongst politicians, ambitious members of the burgeoning Communist Party and even disenfranchised warlords of the old order. With war with Japan on the cards for 1937, the Republic of China’s time in the sun will be brief, memorable and far from idyllic.

WHERE TO STAY

The Astor House Hotel You might only visit the Republic of China once, so make the most of it by checking into the Astor House Hotel in Shanghai, one of China’s oldest and grandest hotels. Once a humble sailor’s boarding house, the hotel flourished into a glamorous residence for foreign visitors. Even better, in 1912 you can still bag a room for less than £10 a night! Make the most of your stay because the Astor House’s days are numbered – it will be occupied by the Japanese in 1937.

WHO TO BEFRIEND

Lao She

Lao She, the pen name of Shu Sheyu, isn’t only one of China’s most celebrated novelists, but also a man who lived through and chronicled some of his country’s most tumultuous years. Well-travelled and hugely respected in the

Republic of China, Lao She changed the face of writing in his native land, popularising satirical novels and capturing the changing face of the nation. Lao She’s works reflect the shifting cultural and social landscape of the Republic of China, so as your guide to the artistic heart of the Republic as well as the very best teahouses,

Lao She is the man.

Extra tip: If you want to talk books with Lao She, it’s probably best not to mention the American translation of his 1937 masterpiece,

Luòtuo Xiángzi. Titled rickshaw Boy, the hard-hitting novel of life in

Beijing was extensively rewritten, heavily edited and even given a crowd pleasing happy ending to appeal to

Western audiences.

WHO TO AVOID

du yuesheng

Better known as Big Ears, Du Yuesheng is a Triad leader who wields immense power from his Shanghai headquarters. Don’t be fooled by his portfolio of respectable businesses, because Du is a man who doesn’t only own hotels and banks, but politicians and police too. As a leader of the

Green Gang, Du is the godfather of the

Republic of China with interests in organised crime including extortion, narcotics and prostitution.

Thanks to his business interests and wealth, he is as respected in polite society as he is feared.

Getting on the wrong side of Du Yuesheng can be a death sentence.