OKONOMIYAKI

SAVOURY JAPANESE PANCAKE, OSAKA, 1930s – PRESENT

Gaining popularity in post-war Japan when supplies were scarce, the okonomiyaki evolved in several directions from the earliest pancakes in Japan from around the Edo period (1603-1868). Originally more crepelike and sweet, savoury varieties with more ingredients and sauces emerged, each with their own twist or interpretation. From this it gets its name, with yaki meaning 'grilled' and okonomi meaning 'what you want’.

Two styles emerged from Osaka and Hiroshima, with the key difference being Osaka pancakes mixed everything into the batter while Hiroshima pancakes cooked toppings on top of a thin base. Post-war rice prices pushed many to try the dish and it remains very popular to this day, served in Japanese restaurants around the world. We'll take a look at a relatively simple Osaka version, although it has some speciality ingredients that are worth hunting down.

METHOD

01 You can start by making your own okonomi sauce by whisking together the oyster sauce, sugar, ketchup and Worcestershire sauce until smooth. Store bought is also great if you can find it. Set aside.

02 Mix the eggs and dashi together in a bowl until fully combined. Add to the flour in a larger bowl, add the salt, and mix until there are no lumps.

03 In a final bowl, add the cabbage and spring onions (and tenkasu or tempura scraps if using), and then pour the batter mixture over the top. Stir until everything is evenly coated. 04 Ready a frying pan on a medium-low heat and add the oil. Spoon half the mixture into the centre of the pan and begin to shape into a round, flat shape with spatulas. Press down to close up any air bubbles. 05 As the pancake is cooking, begin to place half your strips of bacon over the top. You can cut these into smaller pieces first if you prefer. Reduce heat to low and allow to fry for 7-9 minutes or until the base is golden brown.

06 Flip the pancake using two spatulas, a second pan or a chopping board to cook the bacon side. Oil can splash at this moment, so flip with care. Press the pancake down to make sure it's making even contact with the pan. Cook for another 6-7 minutes.

07 Flip back out onto a plate or chopping board to serve (repeat with remaining ingredients for a second pancake). Sauce liberally with okonomi sauce and a zig-zag of Kewpie mayonnaise. Top additionally with bonito flakes, powdered seaweed and pickled ginger (all optional).