IT’S TIME TO PRUNE
Ruth looks at what you should and shouldn’t cut back
MOST deciduous trees will need to be pruned during the dormant days of autumn and winter, once all or most of their leaves have dropped.
At this time of year, their sap has retreated down into the very core of the trunk, meaning they shouldn’t ‘bleed’ as profusely as at other times of the year.
However, certain trees, including plum, cherry, apricot, almonds, and rhododendron, are susceptible to the fungal disease silver leaf, which releases spores between
September and May. These spores can infect fresh pruning wounds, so vulnerable trees should be pruned between early and mid-summer. Evergreens should also be left alone until later in spring, to avoid damage by frost.
The idea of pruning is to keep the tree or shrub healthy and in good shape; an open ‘goblet’ is ideal, since it looks attractive and allows air to flow through the branches. When pruning fruit trees, you also remove older fruited wood to make room for new, more productive growth. Start by thinking of the ‘three Ds’ and remove dead, damaged and diseased wood, followed by any spindly and congested growth. When pruning out diseased wood back to healthy growth, sterilise tools after use so you don’t spread the problem.
It used to be common practice to seal large pruning wounds with healing paint, but it is no longer the case as a healthy tree will soon form a protective seal over the cut.
Health and safety come to the fore when pruning. Always use sharp, clean tools, and wear gloves – it is hard to work safely and efficiently with cold hands – plus goggles and a hard hat if necessary.
And remember the ancient pruning advice of ‘look twice but cut once’. You can always take off more if you need to, but you can’t stick it back on again if you overdo things!