Prepare for winter pruning
Sharp, clean tools are essential for a good job, says Ruth
AS autumn advances and the garden feels as though its closing in on itself, it is time to prepare to prune. Most deciduous trees and shrubs, including roses and those bearing fruits and berries, are given a trim during the dormant weeks when their sap has receded so there’s less chance they will ‘bleed’ from pruning wounds.
The exceptions to this rule are members of the cherry and plum families, as well as almonds, nectarines and peaches, as winter pruning can make them more vulnerable to silver leaf disease. Evergreens should also only be pruned when the weather warms up in early summer as they are less hardy than deciduous varieties and their pruned ends can be damaged by frost.
Although most trees will grow well without pruning, we do it to keep them in shape, remove weak, dead, diseased and damaged material, and to encourage stronger growth and better fruiting where relevant.
Necessary tools include secateurs for twigs up to the diameter of a pencil, long-handled loppers for thicker and high-up stems, and saws (pruning saws, bow saws and chainsaws) for larger branches. Make sure they are sharpened and cleaned before starting work, as blunt blades leave torn cuts that are unsightly and can be an entry point for pests and diseases. Dirty blades will also spread diseases.
If you have any concerns about tackling large trees, it is best – and safest – to call in a reputable tree surgeon.
If you feel you can manage the job, remember the old adage ‘look twice, cut once’, to avoid taking off too much.
Alternatively, have someone with you to direct your cutting so you leave the tree with an attractive, natural shape once pruned.