Whatever floats your boat
There is a kenspeckle icon of Oban’s compelling maritime history that is enjoying a splendid renaissance, albeit one of a radically different sort from that with which it is synonymous.
The former Northern Lighthouse Board vessel Fingal is wowing visitors in its new role as a floating luxury hotel at the port of Leith, where it is berthed close to Ocean Terminal and the Royal Yacht Britannia.
The Fingal has been transformed into its current magnificent condition courtesy of a £5 million makeover, which has resulted in wholesale changes, though many of the ship’s original features have been retained and augmented.
The metamorphosis has been overseen by Oban man Bob Downie, chief executive of The Royal Yacht Britannia Charitable Trust, which took ownership of the vessel in July 2014 following six years of negotiations with the previous owner, after having been approached in 2008 to effect a transfer of ownership of what at that time was named the Windsor Castle. She opened in January 2019 as a hotel but, says Bob, it was April or May before the finishing touches were complete. ‘We had an interesting journey during the conversion,’ he admits. ‘It was much harder than we had imagined but we got there and then, of course, Covid came along.
‘We reopened on July 2 and it’s been pretty good since. We did really well in August with nearly 60 per cent occupancy and the food and beverage side going well.
‘The Michelin inspectors were here recently so we’re praying we get a good recommendation.’
The food, it must be said, is excellent, in part because the menu is not too extensive. Bob explained: ‘The economics of it mean we can’t do much more but what we do, we do very well and our high teas are superb.’
The attention to detail for the conversion has been staggering, with decks stripped out completely and rebuilt with luxury cabins and a sumptuous ballroom or function suite created in the bow area.
A new deck has been added on top to accommodate the Lighthouse Restaurant and Bar, with an open area offering a wonderful place to sit and contemplate the Leith waterfront and policies.
The retention of the original engine room, however, was insisted upon by Bob and has augmented interest among visitors, especially former crew members who have toured the vessel.
‘Ex-crew get quite emotional when they tour the whole ship but especially the engine room as there is still a hint of diesel in the air and because it was such a landmark until it left Oban in 1996. I was one of those who grew up seeing it all the time.
‘We still have the original log books and an album of old photos and new ones that chronicle the conversion. We’ve also kept some of the original features such as the brass telegraphs. If you speak to anyone who grew up on the west coast of Scotland over the 36 years or so that the Fingal served the Highlands and Islands, they’ll talk with fondness about such a beautiful ship. The fact Fingal has been saved and preserved for the next 20, 30, 50 years or whatever, when most classic ships end up being scrapped, is an aspect of which I’m particularly proud.’
The Royal Yacht Britannia Charitable Trust is a heritage charity that is self-funding and receives no government money. ‘We’re quite unusual in that way,’ said Bob. ‘With Fingal, we wanted to invest in something that was separate from Britannia but complementary and had a synergy with what we’re doing there. What we do, we do really well.
‘The Britannia was this year voted the UK’s number one visitor attraction and we’re working to maintain those standards.
‘We spent a year planning the Fingal conversion and fretted over the tiniest details. It’s a hard journey to seek perfection. As long as people have enough confidence to give themselves a treat, the Fingal will do fine.’
Supper and Stay packages aboard Fingal are from £260 per night for two people sharing a classic cabin. The package includes dinner and breakfast. To book, go to www.fingal. co.uk or call 0131 357 5000.