A Trio of Tumps: Creag Buireinich, Creagan Dlùth and Creag Caoileid
Argyll has an incredibly rugged geology shaped by millions of years as it has drifted north from south of the equator.
Six hundred million years ago Scotland was once a part of the super continent Laurentia sometimes it lay under shallow seas, was covered by forest, lay dry and arid, was being scoured by deep ice or being rent apart by volcanoes and magma.
The geology of Mid Argyll also means there are distinct ridges aligned from the southwest to the north-east, which essentially create what are referred to as Knapps (hence Knapdale).
These in turn are riven by deep glens often filled by fresh or seawater lochs – or bog! And with all the ridges come many mountains, hills, lumps and bumps.
Of interest for this walk are some of its Tumps. In hill bagging terms these summits have a prominence of at least 30m all round. To give an idea of Argyll’s geography, compared to say Cumberland (which includes Cumbria), Argyll has 1,462 Tumps whilst Cumberland has 271. (source: https://www.hill-bagging. co.uk/CountyTumps.php).
Not only does this walk allow for an opportunity to explore a trio of Tumps, it also offers spectacular views from some cracking and rugged wee hills.
In the main section I have outlined the route for the trio of Tumps (purple route) but have mentioned shorter options at the end for those only wishing to undertake one or two of the hills. Either park tucked in just south of Fearnoch or at the entrance to the forestry track just north of Fearnoch ensuring access is always kept clear.
Heading north of the forest cottages at Fearnoch, take the next right up the main forestry track (you may already have parked here). If you reach Loch Leathan, you have gone past it!
Go through the gate and head uphill through the forestry, ignoring the first turning left. The track will soon bend steeply to the left and the ground to the right will open out where the forestry has been harvested.
Continue for nearly 300m and then take a steep track up to your right; the open ground will remain on your right as you skirt up by the trees on your left. After a short distance of improved road, the track becomes quite grassy and pleasant, undulating upwards at the edges of the forest towards the small bealach one km ahead. As you climb, the views open out to the west giving a taste of
what is to come.
On reaching the bealach you will see a small path to your right, on the other side of the wall, leading up the hill of Creag Buireinich. You will be coming back to do this hill later (unless you have decided to just do the one hill - see end
notes).
For now, continue ahead for another 50-plus metres until you can see easier grassy access onto the hill on your left just below the craggy ridge. There is a small cairn, but it is easily missed as the hill is pathless.
Head upwards in a northeasterly direction. It is rough ground and slow going but it is only 450m from the track to the summit, although you do dip down en route over a boggy area. It is easiest to keep to the higher ground once over the dip then veer slightly left to the summit, which is pretty flat. The views up here are lovely but there are not so many perches for a rest until you head further north.
Keeping in the north-easterly direction, follow the ridge until it starts to drop down, keeping the steep ground on the right just below you (ie don’t veer too far left as the ridge does do a split).
As you meander past the lumps and bumps you will eventually reach forestry. Keeping to the NE end of the ridge, look out for the firebreak below. It offers a steep way down but is clear and easy enough going - the ground to the east prior to this is much steeper and should be avoided.
At the bottom of the firebreak, head south-east for 50m over rough ground to the corner of a burn just below a small knoll. Cross the burn and then head along the northern edge of the knoll past a boggy area and onto a faint track heading NE. This will become more obvious.
Follow the track until you come to a slightly (!) more obvious forestry track and turn right. This will now take you eastwards and eventually north-east towards your next Tump, Creag Caoileid. The ascent track is mainly obvious but there are a couple of boggy sections where it becomes faint. Ultimately you are heading for the summit of the ridge lying to the west of Lochan Anama.
Eventually the track turns sharply south-west along the ridge to run parallel to Lochan Anama below. Here you will need to turn north and cross 100m rough ground. The summit is small but has a rocky top with superb views to Loch Gainmheach with many more of Argyll’s hills in view.
Return south to the corner of the track but now follow it south-west. It is not marked on the map but runs just to the west of the main ridge until it eventually joins the track marked on the map at the south end of the lochan. You can also go along the ridge or lochside but it is very up and down, boggy and rough going.
On reaching the track south of Lochan Anama it drops to the eastern side of the ridge. Follow this all the way back to the bealach. It will initially head south into forestry under the ridge before veering west at the ridge’s south end. It is boggy in places and there are several fords but these are generally crossable unless there has been very heavy rain.
At the bealach you are now looking for the path you saw earlier (now on your left) up the north face of Creag Buireinich, or “the crag of the bellowing”, perhaps named for the many red deer found hereabouts. This hill is a real treat and worth saving until last.
Head south-west up the path through the gap in the wall. Initially steep it soon reaches slightly more even ground and you will see the initial summit crag just off to your right – it is only 200m from the bealach so you will be rewarded quickly! There is a cairn on this crag and the views are stunning.
You can now take the path south along the ridge – it is worth topping the crags ahead as one, at least, does look higher than the cairned summit! The vista towards Mull, Scarba and Jura is superb. If you don’t mind walking on rough ground as light fades the sunsets are pretty good from here too.
Now just follow the path south-west all the way to the forestry/Old Fearnoch Farm track below, then turn right and this will take you back to the main road. Turn right again towards Fearnoch and your start point.
z If you do not wish to do all three Tumps you can do just one or two.
Creag Buireinich can be ascended using steps 1-4, just turn right at the bealach instead of heading up Creagan Dlùth. We have marked this route in orange. You can do this circular either way or just go up and down the path from the Old Fearnoch farm track.
To complete Creag Buireinich and Creagan Dlùth you can ascend Creag Buireinich from the farm track first then continue over to Creagan Dlùth. When dropping off to the north, you can then turn left onto the forestry track which eventually veers back down to the main road just north of Fearnoch. We have marked this route in green.