A recipe needs a story, or it’s just food
ELLA WALKER has gazpacho elevenses with chef José Pizarro, to learn about Andalusia, his new cookbook
SEATED at chef José Pizarro’s dining table, at his south London home we’re having ‘gazpacho elevenses’ in honour of Pizarro’s latest cookbook, Andalusia, the release of which coincides with the Spanish restaurateur’s 20th year in Britain.
It’s summer encapsulated in print, from the simplest of recipes, like orange and oregano salad, to espeto (barbecued sardines) and apricot sorbet with tejas dulces de Sevilla.
Born in Extremadura, Spain, José moved to London after a stint cheffing in Madrid and has loved it ever since– largely because of the diversity of food and cuisines available in Britain, a diversity Spain just didn’t have.
However, there wasn’t much Spanish food available when he arrived, mostly high-street chain fare, and “people didn’t know what they were eating”, he recalls.
And what they were eating “wasn’t related to Spanish quality and ingredients”, either.
Things have changed a lot in two decades though, and the concept of good Spanish food is something most of us are comfortable with. “Parma ham – people do understand now,” says José.
Delving deeper into the food of Andalusia then, is not so obscure an idea as it might have been twenty years ago.
While researching Andalusia, José visited the Franciscan nuns in Ronda, Malaga.
“So lovely! Oh they were really lovely, really friendly. In some way, they want to see people coming from outside, slowly, slowly, slowly, try to open a little bit more.”
They taught him how to make ganotes – twists of sweet, orangescented deep-fried dough – that he says is the most moving, touching recipe in the book for him.
However, turn to page 194 for a picture of José happily rolling out dough, and the nun next to him is looking utterly bemused.
“That face?” says José, laughing. “I’m very happy! She’s looking at me like, ‘What are you doing?”’
But “every recipe has a story”, says Jose with feeling.
“It has to have something that means something, or it’s just food.”
■ ANDALUSIA: Recipes From Seville And Beyond by José Pizarro. Photography by Emma Lee. Published by Hardie Grant, priced £26.