From Russia with love
Champagne, caviar and Communism - 72 hours in St Petersburg with Alex Wood
Prior to visiting St Petersburg, i had formed several ideas of what i expected the city to be like - old, cold and grey. i pictured Soviet-style high-rise buildings, Stalin statues and Lada-manufactured cars zipping up and down the city’s narrow streets, dirty exhaust fumes reflecting a dull skyline above. Upon arriving in St Petersburg, however, i quickly learned my expectations were nothing more than ill-informed misconceptions. The city, situated in russia’s rugged north west, is an explosion of colour, culture and cuisine. Home to more than five million people, the port city is just over 300-years-old and - despite its relative infancy - boasts a rich yet tragic history. it was founded in 1703 by Tsar Peter the Great, who secured the territory after defeating the Swedish forces in the Great Northern War. As an admirer of European architecture, Peter enlisted several of the continent’s leading architects to build him a city capable of replacing Moscow as the country’s capital - something he formalised in 1712. Although the city was ravaged by fires in 1736, many of St Petersburg’s most prestigious and recognisable structures - built according to Trezzini and Le Blond’s plans - survived. This includes the Menshikov Palace, Kunstkamera, Peter and Paul Cathedral and Twelve Collegia, all of which are must-visits while in St Petersburg. These buildings, as well as the world-famous Winter Palace and awe-inspiring Saint isaac’s Cathedral, are best characterised by their colours - the striking yellows, reds and whites - and extravagant designs. And by being able to walk freely among them, it makes you feel like you have been transported 250 years back in time. How do I get to St Petersburg from Bristol? one of the highlights of my trip to St Petersburg was the fact i could fly without having to travel far. in fact, thanks to Dutch airline KLM, i was able to fly from Bristol Airport. St Petersburg is one of the 165 worldwide
destinations KLM flies to from the UK’S regional airports - including Bristol - via its transfer hub in Amsterdam. By taking full advantage of this one-stop transfer, i was able to leave my flat in Bristol at 7am and arrive at my hotel in St Petersburg by 5pm - without the hassle of having to travel to London to catch my flight.
What is there to do in St Petersburg?
St Petersburg is home to a number of major tourist attractions - not least the Winter Palace and the Hermitage Museum. Conveniently, these two are situated in the same location, so you don’t have to travel far if you are keen to experience both. The Hermitage is the second largest art museum in the world, and it is home to a number of iconic pieces by artists includings Leonardo Da Vinci, rembrandt and Pablo Picasso. Even if art is not really your thing, it is hard not to be taken back by the grandeur of the palace itself with many of the rooms and large halls laden with gold, richly-decorated tapestries and portraits. To see St Petersburg in the way founder Peter The Great intended, you need to see it by boat. Fortunately, there are a number of hop-on, hop-off ferry services available to board - and it is by boat that you will come to appreciate the city’s myriad of winding side-streets and narrow canals, many of which you simply do not see by car or foot. if you are considering a boat trip, though, my advice would be to pack a few extra layers. Blankets are usually offered but you will certainly be glad of the extra jumper, hat or scarf when you are out on the Neva, the icy river spray and harsh winds stinging your face. Another must-do while in the city is the ballet. i was fortunate enough to get tickets to watch a performance of Cinderella on the final night of my trip. Set within the historic Mikhailovsky Theatre, the twopart show was simply stunning - from the champagne reception upon arrival to the standing ovation and shouts of “encore” at the show’s conclusion, it was an evening that oozed elegance and class from start to finish.
Where should I eat?
When it comes to St Petersburg’s food scene, you are in for a real treat. During my three-day trip, i was fortunate to dine at some of the city’s bestknown haunts - which are, as expected, popular among tourists - as well as the little-known cafes and bars frequented by locals. if you want to sample fine dining, i would recommend il Nostra Percorso at the Four Seasons, an italian restaurant which is widely regarded as the best in the city. Hand-prepared by chef Valerio Andrisani and his team, the sixcourse lunch menu takes you on a classic culinary tour of italy - but with a few modern twists along the way. The food - which is nothing short than exceptional - is accompanied by a selection of wines, presented, explained and poured for you at the beginning of each course by a sommelier. it is a level of service matched only by the quality of food. And to finish the meal? A Sgroppino - a zesty and refreshing cocktail, made up of lemon sorbet, vodka and prosecco, that will leave you wanting more. Another restaurant to consider when visiting St Petersburg, if you are in the market for a fine dining experience, is Mahcapga (pronounced Mansarda). Set against the backdrop of the domed structure that is Saint isaac’s Cathedral, the rooftop restaurant specialises in italian, European and russian cuisine - often blending elements of all three. its nine-course dinner tasting menu features black caviar on potato pancakes, squid, dim sum with duck and salmon accompanied by a kiwi relish. The food is served alongside wines and champagne that have been hand-selected by the chef and his team to bring out the flavours and cleanse the palette. if, however, you are looking for some authentic russian cuisine, look no further than the russian Vodka Museum. Here, you will be able to satisfy those beef stroganoff or chicken kiev cravings while sampling the museum’s vast collection of vodkas. The museum boasts its own in-house restaurant, which is small, intimate and cosy - perfect to enjoy a relaxing meal in after learning about the history of russia’s most famous drink. And, speaking of drinks, if you want to experience St Petersburg by night, head to rubinstein Street in the city centre. The charming side street is home to an array of trendy little bars and independent cafes, drawing a hip, creative-class crowd. Crazy Wine is a good place to pull up a chair, sip a cocktail and watch the world go by before taking a romantic stroll over to the banks of the Neva river to see the late-night drawing of the bridges. Every night, during the navigation period from April to November, 22 bridges across the Neva and main canals are drawn to let ships pass in and out of the Baltic Sea into the Volga-baltic waterway system.
Where should I stay?
During my three-day stint in St Petersburg, i stayed at The Corinthia Hotel in Nevsky Prospekt (which is the city’s main boulevard, home to many shops, restaurants and cafes). The hotel has recently completed a large-scale, multi-million pound, twoyear investment project aimed at updating the design of the guestrooms in the main wing. Ahead of the 2018 russia World Cup, in which St Petersburg was one of the host cities, 162 new rooms and suites were opened at the Corinthia offering guests from all over the world the very best in European hospitality and modern luxury. in fact, during the tournament, a number of national football sides - including the Brazil team - stayed at the hotel. And although the World Cup had well and truly ended by the time i visited, the hospitality and luxury the hotel prides itself on offering were very much on display. Spacious and elegant, i found the five-star hotel to be the perfect place to kick back after a long day of exploring - its central location putting it within walking distance of many of the city’s key attractions. The nice, little touches by staff - like the selection of sweet treats that were hand-delivered to your door and the positioning of the complimentary slippers beside your bed for when you wake up - coupled with the impressive decor and generous room size made for an enjoyable, relaxing and refreshing three nights stay at the hotel. And with double rooms for two people available online from as cheap as £65 a night, the hotel really does offer the best when it comes to luxury at affordable prices.
Final thoughts
When Peter The Great founded St Petersburg, he wanted to create a city unlike any other in russia at the time. But testament to his planning and the people that helped create St Petersburg, i would say they succeeded in creating a city unlike any other in the world. it may well have been modelled on Venice, and it may well have been heavily influenced by European design and architecture, but the city is truly unique. it is colourful, cultural and classy - but also has a gritty, almost industrial, underbelly that serves as a reminder to its past and recent history. St Petersburg is perfect for a city break, ideal for young couples, who are looking to explore somewhere different, somewhere rugged and somewhere untapped by tourism. it is a city that you will fall love with, and a city that will leave you wishing you could go back.