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Briana Millett gets some of the freshest air around at Alpe d’huez, also known as the Island in the Sun
There’s something special about being in the mountains. It’s nature’s ultimate playground; the crisp air somehow feels fresher than anywhere else, and you just can’t help but feel relaxed. I think everyone should take a break from the mundane and experience life above the clouds at some point in their lifetime. And for me, whether you’ve never skied a day in your life or are at your happiest flying down the slopes, there are few resorts which offer as much as Alpe d’huez. For beginners and thrill-seekers alike, this grande ski domaine offers something for everyone – even if you don’t fancy putting on a pair of skis...
The skiing
Alpe d’huez is the fifth-biggest ski domaine in France, offering 250km of slopes from 1,100m to 3,300m high. There is snow cover for a long season, starting in early December and finishing in late April. The domain is famous for being home to the longest ski run in europe – La sarenne, a 16km black run starting at the highest point of Alpe d’huez – and its “tunnel” run, which is for experienced skiers and thrill-seekers only. But even for beginners or nervous skiers, it’s possible to ski or snowboard for miles without having to navigate a red run. I’d recommend hiring a guide for the day, or signing up to ski school to see the most of the mountains – there’s nothing quite like local knowledge to help you navigate the piste and relax into the day. The vast domaine makes it impossible to get bored. You’re able to ski one side of the mountain in the morning, head down to a completely different village for lunch, and finish the day at an apres ski bar at the top of the mountain. Alpe d’huez is known as the “Island in the sun”, with 300 days of sun a year, making for some incredible ski conditions. There’s nothing quite like fresh mountain air and views of seemingly-unending mountaintops to calm the soul, and in Alpe d’huez you find yourself treated to snow-covered forests one minute and iced-over waterfalls the next.
Family-friendly
The resort offers plenty for adults – including famous apres ski bar Folie Douce, where revellers dance on the tables in their ski boots while the DJ plays to the mountains – but Alpe d’huez is very much a family zone. This was particularly clear in the smaller villages around the domaine, Oz-en-oisans and Auris-en-oisans. The entire village of Oz is made up of ski-in, ski-out hotels and chalets – meaning no uncomfortable buses to the slopes with children. This also means it has a car-free ethos, meaning children are free to play in the street and throw snowballs care-free. There are plenty of gentle green and blue slopes high in the mountains while the ski schools cater for little ones as young as three. Auris also has a new zone created specifically for little ones to learn to ski, away from the main piste. Lift passes bring in €8-€10million to the resort every year, but that goes straight back into improvements. One place which has seen investment in recent years is the Jacques le Bucheron trail. The run comes complete with bumps, slides, tunnels and a half-pipe.
more Than just skiing
More and more it seems people are heading to the mountains with no intention of skiing. Nordic walking is popular in Alpe d’huez so, armed with two poles and some walking boots, I was ready to take on the mountain. I’ll admit, I hadn’t considered Nordic walking as an activity to try. Time not in skis felt wasted – but I was totally wrong. We only spent about an hour walking but it was an incredibly relaxing way to take in the mountain. We also tried out a husky ride in Auris, which was an unforgettable experience. Going up the mountain feels calming as the (sometimes lazy) dogs pull you up – but going down (at speed) feels much more like a thrill.
Food and drink
There’s nothing quite like a day on the slopes to work up an appetite, and we were treated to traditional dishes such as cheese fondue, raclette and coq au vin. There’s no breakfast quite like a French breakfast – so be prepared to enjoy French cheese with freshly baked bread each morning followed by delicious pan au chocolat. When we stayed in Oz we made use of new catering service Monts & Merveilles, run by Patty and serge. The couple ask for your order, prepare it ahead of time, and cook it for you in
the comfort of your chalet – meaning you can enjoy restaurant-quality food curled up by the fire. If there’s a better excuse not to leave the chalet, I’m yet to find one…
Where to stay
Ski-in, ski-out Hotel Eterlou in Oz-enoisans This newly-refurbished chalet felt like a home away from home in the Alps. The views from its rooms and balcony were spectacular, with the chalet completely surrounded by mountains. The hotel is 250m from the Alpette gondola and can sleep up to 20 people. The reception room includes a kitchen – where breakfast is served – and a large fireplace to relax next to. Downstairs the chalet has a spa, with a hot tub and a sauna to soothe those aching limbs. The hotel costs £79 per double room, per night, but the chalet must be rented as a whole. To book, visit www.chaletsoz.com Le Beau Site We also spent a night at Hotel Restaurant Le Beau Site, in Auris, which is just minutes from the slopes. Prices start from £80 per night for a double room. For more information, visit www.hotellebeausite-auris.fr