To the hills of Box and Ditteridge
Another ‘quiet lanes’ walk that avoids muddy fields. hopefully the last of this year. It is often hills that make a place – one has only to think of the Seven hills of rome or the hilltops that provide such a magnificent backdrop to Bath.
on a smaller scale, the same is true of the Wiltshire village of Box, with hillsides sweeping away towards Colerne and henley, Box hill and hazelbury. one suspects that Brunel was not of the same opinion, however, with Box hill providing a huge challenge to the navvies during the construction of the Great Western railway. The resulting Box tunnel remains one of the wonders of Britain’s railway network.
Box is also well known as a centre of quarrying and mining, with good-quality beds of oolitic limestone, now known as Bath stone, having provided employment for thousands of local men over the years. herein lies an interesting tale. towards the end of the 7th century, St Aldhelm is said to have thrown down his glove on a hillside above Box and told men to dig and they would find treasure. The treasure in question was none other than the golden limestone, subsequently used in such illustrious constructions as Malmesbury and Lacock Abbeys.
The prosperity of Box was founded on stone mining, with the local hillsides riddled with many miles of tunnels and passageways that were the source of the golden Bath stone. As a reminder of this era in the village’s history, there is a display of local stones entitled ‘Box rock Circus’ in the park at the start of the walk. Pinchin’s Mill, at one time part of the former Box Brewery, was bought by Peter Gabriel in 1987 and is now the world-renowned real World recording studios. Such illustrious artists as Van Morrison, robert Plant, Joss Stone and tom Jones have recorded tracks in this quiet corner of Wiltshire.
Ditteridge, the next port of call, has a charming and simple church that stands as a reminder of how many village churches looked in medieval times. It is believed that this site was used as a travellers’ rest, near to the Fosse Way, and this could have given rise to the dedication to St Christopher, the patron saint of travellers. There is evidence that there was a Saxon church here although the present church dates from 1100. It is sited at the northern end of a road formerly known as high Street, and it is most likely that Ditteridge was more important in medieval times than it is now, a diminutive hamlet where time seems to have stood still.
Beyond lies the scattered hamlet of Alcombe, with several rather grand properties that will no doubt catch the eye. The noted Sir nikolaus Pevsner, one of the most learned and stimulating 20th-century writers on architecture, passed this way and commented on the local manor. his thoughts were quite perfunctory. “½ m. w of Cheyney Court. to the r. of the entrance a small two-light C14 window, the only evidence of the medieval part of a much modernized house.”
What else is there along the way? Look out for the telephone box in Ditteridge, which is now a community book recycling hub even though the public telephone still appears to be functional! opposite is a house with lower level verandas that looks like it’s straight out of the southern states of the USA; it is not inconceivable to imagine Lead Belly sat outside playing the blues. Beyond Alcombe Manor, look out for Coles Farm, a tudor mansion whose long and chequered history can be found on a website called Box People and Places.
one last highlight; pause at a gateway beyond hillhouse Farm to enjoy a view across the By Brook Valley and Box, towards Box hill and Kingsdown.
GETTING There
■ Follow the A4 into Box and, opposite Box Pharmacy, turn into Valens Terrace. Park in the large car park alongside Box Recreation Ground at the bottom of this cul de sac road. ■ 1. Walk across the park to its far left corner before following a short section of track to join a road. Turn left, pass under a railway bridge and cross the By Brook and continue for just over ¼ mile to a junction immediately past Slade’s House. Ignoring both right and left turns, follow the ‘main’ road ahead for 150 yards to the next junction. Keep ahead on the ‘main’ road and continue into Ditteridge where, in ¼ mile, a detour to the right will bring you to St Christopher’s Church.
■ 2. For the main walk, follow the road ahead for just under ¾ mile to the second left turn. Follow this left turn down past Alcombe Manor and on to a junction by Stable Cottage. Keep left and follow the road down past a property called Briary Orchard. Continue for another 650 yards to a T-junction and turn left.
■ 3. Ignoring a very early cul de sac lane on the left, follow the ‘main’ road ahead for 350 yards to the next junction by Heleigh House. Follow the lane on the right signposted to Hillhouse Farm for just over ¼ mile to a junction just above Slade’s House. Turn right and retrace your steps back down to the By Brook and under the railway bridge, before turning right to cross the recreation ground back to the parking area.
NOTE: Please maintain social distancing while walking for exercise and only follow this walk if it is local to you during lockdown