Bath Chronicle

RAISE a GLASS

- WITH JANE CLARE

I love a wine with a story behind it.

To be honest, all of them have one, if you only look for it.

When I was first told about this wine, coming up, I had to know more and have a sip. malbado has just exclusivel­y launched in Asda with an RRP of £14. But what’s the story? It’s an Argentinia­n malbec which has weaved its way into existence by a little bit of luck and some faith.

The grapes come from an old pinot noir vineyard, which, about 20 years ago, was due to be pulled up. But it was discovered that the new shoots were malbec, and not pinot noir.

It’s all easy to forget, when we’re sipping wine, that it is the result of agricultur­e. And so somewhere in its past, malbec had been grafted onto the rootstock. The plants were given a second chance; and now I’m tasting a malbec with a depth of black fruits, cherry inflection­s. It has a lifted note of violets with a chorus of spices, coffee and liquorice. It’s a smashing wine to pour as the seasons turn.

I’ll stay in Asda with another full red, one that is lush, ripe and warming: Baron de ley Finca monasterio rioja 2019 (in selected stores for £17).

The wine is so-called because more than 500 years ago, Benedictin­e monks were making wine from grapes growing near the monastery at Baron de Ley.

Tempranill­o is at the heart of the blend, which delivers a cloud of softness, a punch of plums, dark fruits and jammy currants, and a slippery velvet spice.

Also in my glass …

I joined a smashing wine tasting with other members of online wine merchant The Wine Society. The society’s Italian wine buyer, and Master of Wine, Sarah Knowles, presented a selection of Italian fine wines.

Fine wine in Italy is now a “serious game” explained Sarah, especially as some of the more traditiona­l French fine wines (Burgundy and Bordeaux) are becoming more expensive. Italian fine wines can be, said Sarah, of an “unpretenti­ous nature, exceptiona­l wines, and with grapes you don’t see in the rest of the world”.

The wines were stunning and included these two: nerello mascalese Versante nord terre Siciliane, eduardo torres acosta 2018 (£24) which is red-fruited, light and elegant; and Chianti Classico riserva, Quercia al poggio 2016 (£24) a superb taste with cherry notes and balsamic.

Jane is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers. Find her on social media and online as One Foot in the Grapes.

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